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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/08/2015 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi all. I recently found this forum, which is great since I am part way through a San Francisco II build. Before I get too far, I want to ask a question. The instructions show the planks as being laid in one length. This seems wrong to me, both because I don't believe the ship would have been built like that, and also because it will be extremely hard to do with 2mm thick planks. So, my question is which way do you think is better, sections or full planks? Here is the section of the plans: BrettK attached the following image(s):
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 Hi BrettK Firstly welcome to the forum and if your stuck just ask were here to help. As for your planking question its down to artistic licence by the kits designer in that single rows of planks will look nicer than cut part lengths as would have been on the full size ship which you correctly point out. So its up to yourself really but laying the planks as instructed will make the planking easyer to do. The stern will not be much of a problem curvature wise but the bow will need the planks to be soaked in warm water for at least half an hour then either steamed to shape or use a plank bending tool to get the curve. There are several good diary's on the build of this ship and refering to them will help you too. Have you thought about adding a build diary as this will aid in us helping you if you encounter any problems. Good luck with your build and hope to hear more on your progress. Regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Totally agree with Andy on the planking as it is best to stick with the instructions After it is fully planked you can mark the planks to look like they are made off shorter ones Hope this helps and looking forward to seeing more of your build rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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If you decide to cut the planks to a length you present yourself with som potential problems firstly you will have to stager the joints like brick laying so yo may find you are having to put a bend in the full length of a cut to lenght plank, not easy in 2mm hard wood. Also you may end up with more wast and potentialy run short of strip wood. Also you are prabably trebeling the time required to plank the hull as well as creating mor oppertunity for gaps. And thats before we consider having enough nails to do the job. It would look nice with more joints but it presents a lot of issues to resolve. This wood is very hard and needs a good 30 mins to an hour of soaking plus bending time it would toake you months as there is a lot of wood on that hull Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
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Welcome to the forum Brett. I can only agree to what the fellow builders have advised you to do. As mentioned once the planking is complete you can always mark the planks as though they were built in shorter pieces. Jase has pointed out some problems that could occur along the way. Enjoy your build. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
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 Rank: Super-Elite    Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Id also go with the full length planks - you could possibly mark fake plank ends after the planking or you could veneer it with short planks as a second layer Steve
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Hi BrettK With the planks on the San Francisco they are very Brittle. Mahogany doesn't like to bend so to get round it I soaked a couple at a time in boiling water until the bubbles stopped. Then used an iron to shape them. If you do it slowly you can get a good round on it. Once shaped then you can go about tapering them. I did the planks full length and it does look good that way. If you have a nose at my build you should see how I went around it. If you need anymore advice give us a shout. Chris. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/08/2015 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Thanks for all the replies.
Full length planks it is!
I did a little test run of full vs sectional. It reminded me how hard it is to get good straight or curved lines with shorter lengths, and how impossible that might be with 2mm thick planks.
I had better start a build diary!
Cheers,
Brett
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/06/2013 Posts: 144 Points: 415 Location: New Zealand
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I can't really comment much on this because the uploaded information is in a foreign language.
But, on the subject of planking while I am struggling to do a lot of this the thought enters my mind, "Is this the traditional way they planked ships in the day?"
I would dearly like to go back to the day to see how they handled the huge planks of wood.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/08/2015 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi Sinbad, At first I thought that was just a Kiwi having a shot at my Strine! Then I realised you were referring to the written instructions. As with most models, the instructions are crap. The photo they use is about 3cm by 10cm, so no detail. The instructions are printed in 7 languages, and the Engrish was further up the page. Here that is: BrettK attached the following image(s):
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UK
