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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Continued...
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Pictures 1,2 & 3. I have been placing the red “mind your head” warning lights to the underside of the hull. Drilling 3mm holes into the hull, I then glued the lights in place. Note, I frosted each LED with sandpaper to give a more rounded light effect. It is also recommended to install the LED lighting to the rear and centre sections before attaching them to the hull.
Picture 4. Then I tidied up all the loose wiring, using sticky back cable ties.
Pictures 5 & 6. Here are selection of pictures showing the lights in place and weathered on the hull.
Pictures 7,8 & 9. And here is the whole underside with lights in place.
Pictures 10 & 11. Whilst tidying up the wiring loom for the lights, I decided to do the same with the Hold area, using sticky back cable ties on the underside allowing the legs to fit into the hull.
Picture 12. This last picture shows the legs fitting neatly into position.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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As some of you have seen previously in my build log, I scratch built the inner workings of the turret. As I am not planning on fixing the turret to the hull, this was made so there was no gaping hole. In this section I will explain how this was achieved, with step by step pictures and a template for anyone to download should they wish to do the same.
Picture 1. I was looking in a Star Wars book, showing the inners of many of the vehicles and ships that have been in the films over the years, including the Millennium Falcon.
Here is a section of the ship I am interested in.
First, I made the base and sides using plastic card, giving me the basic framework to start with.
Here is the link for the template for the frame. Print onto an A4 sheet of paper for the correct size.
https://www.dropbox.com/...9tiO_BZxKn4N9Qq2oa?dl=0
Pictures 2 & 3. The semi-circular section, when made, should not be glued into place, as you will need to fit the gold foil wrappers first.
I then set about looking for parts to make up the inner workings. I used various model car parts including an exhaust section, suspension parts and finally various Lego parts, including the wheels.
The hardest part is to place them in a position you feel works. I spent many hours temporarily fitting various parts into the frame before I was happy to start fixing them permanently in place. I then sprayed the part with primer.
Pictures 4 & 5. Once the primer was dry, I then used metalcote steel paint, and applied the foil wrappers onto the rear section before gluing in place.
Pictures 6 & 7. I then decided to light up the flux capacitor that I have inadvertently made. I used clear tubing found on the end of paint brushes, cut them to size, and used some more Lego pieces to give the desired effect.
Pictures 8,9,10 & 11. The next pictures show the piece, weathered using Mig oils and pigments, and the wiring below.
Pictures 12 & 13. This next section is how it will piece together, ready for when you connect the two hull sections together.
I have strips of round rubber tubing, cutting a piece and gluing the two ends together to make a ring which will be glued into the metal frame section. This will hold the inner piece you have made, into the frame.
Picture 14. Next, we test fit the top turret part and fit it into the frame, matching up the lugs. Do not screw this part in place.
Picture 15. Turning the turret and framework over, place the inner gunners piece and place it onto the turret making sure the notch fits into it rightful position. Again, do not glue this.
Pictures 16,17 & 18. Then place the inner turret part you’ve made into place and glue the supplied gunner section to it. You can see I used a smaller rubber tube piece to help piece the two parts together. By doing this the supplied gunner section will be in the exact position when you place the turret on the top.
Pictures 19 & 20. Here are the final pictures with it in place on the hull.
Next I will be making the inner gunner area and seat.
I have also started a paint tutorial for those who are interested in my method of weathering the hull sections. This should be finished in the next couple of weeks.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Painting Guide Part 1
This is purely a guide to show my own technique on how I painted the hull panels. It is a time-consuming process, however I painted mine as each part arrive monthly. If you stick to the same process with each panel, they will all match together. Note, I did not pre-paint the hull before weathering, and I found the oils were easier to apply directly onto the supplied parts.
Pictire 1. Here is the panel part I will be demonstrating with.
Picture 2. First I will be using Mig oils as shown in the next picture.
Pictures 3 & 4, The first step is to wet the surface with turps. Don’t over wet the surface, if you have applied too much, then leave to dry for a few seconds before applying the pant.
Picture 5. The next step, you will need three brushes and apply each colour as shown in the next picture. Do not apply to much paint, less is more in this case.
Picture 6. Then with some turps on the original brush you used, wipe away in a downward motion, using more turps if necessary.
Picture 7. The last picture shows how it should look when completed. You must leave the panel to dry for at least 24 hours before the next step.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Painting Guide Part 2
Picture 1, The next step is very like the last. These are the colours used.
Picture 2. As before, wet the surface with turps. Note, therefore it is important to let the first paint you applied in step one, to dry, as it would wipe away any previous paint on the surface if you don’t.
Picture 3. Once the paint has been applied, wipe away as before in step one, but use a dry brush this time round.
Again leave to dry for 24 hours before the next step.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Painting Guide Part 3
Picture 1. In this section, we will be highlighting some of the panels. The picture below are the paints we will be using.
Pictures 2,3,4,5,6 & 7. Using variations of the paints, mixing different ones as you like, paint the panels. The paint you mix must be a very thin mixture, and use plenty of turps to mix the colours about. Once you have painted a panel, use a soft brush and dab off any excess turps and paint, this will also take away any brush marks.
Picture 8. The final picture is the finished panel for this step. Again, leave to dry for at least 24 hours.Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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Painting Guide Part 4
This final stage, we will be using just two colours, Starship Filth and Dark Rust. In this section, we will highlight the panels, by painting artificial shadows to give the hull more depth and realism.
Pictures 1,2,3 & 4. First, mix the two colours and paint between the panels, wiping away with a cotton bud after applying. This will create a shadow and highlight the individual panels. Paint small sections at a time.
Picture 5. The next picture shows what it will look like.
Pictures 6,7 & 8. Then using the same method paint each of the notches of the panels.
Picture 9. Here, you can see that part finished.
Pictures 10 & 11. The next stage, I use a soft stumpy brush and apply it with some dark rust sparingly and gently dab it on the edges of the panels as shown here.
Pictures 12,13 & 14. Then using a thin flat headed brush, I use some Starship filth sparingly and gently paint in an upward motion to create the streaks.
Pictures 15,16,17 & 18. The final stages I use a very week mixture of starship filth and use an old tooth brush and flick the brush with the paint on to splatter the panels.
Pictures 19 & 20. And again, I do the same using yellow German ochre.
Pictures 21 & 22. The final pictures are the before and after.
Leave this to dry for several days before spraying it with a Matt varnish. This will help when you handle the panels to fit to the frame.
Markwarren attached the following image(s):
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