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Coser's Temporal Mechanics Course (BTTF Delorean build) Options
Coser
#61 Posted : 18 July 2017 17:53:49

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Looking once again at the engine, and that decal sheet, a further idea came to me.

Anyone with the ability to produce that decal sheet is more than one up on me, I couldn't do it to save my life. However, it seems to me they missed a trick.

Speaking personally, I could have done with just the one DMC logo, and used whatever space that gave up and I could find elsewhere to put a decal of the '2015' bar-code type licence plate. This would have allowed people to correct the fact that if you want the "Mr Fusion" on the back of the Delorean, and/or have the wheels in 'flight' mode, then the number plate supplied with the partwork is wrong.

At the end of part 1, the doc comes back from the future and has had some work done. At this time the previous numberplate has changed into the barcode variant. It stays that way all through part 2. [I'm not sure if it's still there by the end of part 3, can't remember if it comes off when Marty has his wild ride back to the wild west or not.]
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
roymattblack
#62 Posted : 18 July 2017 18:15:46

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I suspect a problem there would be that the bar code plate has mirror chrome bars and text. Printing chrome is incredibly difficult, even for the big boys.

Also, I wonder if the bar code plate might well be part of the kit later on seeing as the Mr Fusion is included.
Coser
#63 Posted : 24 July 2017 09:59:30

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Roy, I was thinking more of a decal with the orange on it.

Once the plate [or in my case, a spare.] had been sanded down, it could be painted chrome, with the decal over the top.

Or a mask supplied so that the plate could be painted orange, masked, then done with the chrome.

Either way, I don't think Eaglemoss are going to be revisiting the number plate. Everything since the first few issues has built onto what has already been done - a very logical method meaning minimal chance of losing parts because you've had to keep them for months without using them. Producing a number plate for the '2015' version of the car would seem like a step backward at this time.



Anyway, back to the build.

I am in the process of preserving the pictures I have so far so that Photobucket won't ruin the thread. I was at home last weekend, however, and have added the radiator assembly and the floorpan section of the build to my chassis. Sorry, no pictures of that.

I will be documenting the detailing of the engine now I am using Imagur, so that may start either later in the week, or over the weekend.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
roymattblack
#64 Posted : 24 July 2017 10:29:08

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A bit like this one...?

roymattblack attached the following image(s):
P1013701.JPG
tigerace
#65 Posted : 24 July 2017 11:47:15

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Now that looks cool Roy Cool top jobDrool regards PhilCool
COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models

So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!


Coser
#66 Posted : 24 July 2017 11:47:23

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yup, that's the one.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
roymattblack
#67 Posted : 24 July 2017 12:12:30

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It was something I experimented with using clear decal over a mirror self-adhesive foil.
The orange didn't come out as 'orange' as I hoped so I dropped the idea.

I have a few spare test decals and foil if anyone wants to have a go at using them.
You'll have to make a plate from plasticard or similar. It can just be stuck over the original plate with a few tiny bits of blu-tak.

If it's of interest, PM me an address and I'll send you the bits - FOC.

Roy.
Coser
#68 Posted : 27 July 2017 21:05:55

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Thanks Roy. Decal arrived today. Look forward to giving it a try.

Also, I have now finished transferring my pictures in this thread from Photobucket to Imgur, so work can continue, albeit slowly for a while.

Whilst I am waiting for a decent opportunity to strip my engine for painting and detailing, I have gone ahead and added the fans, radiator, and floor pan to the chassis. sorry, bit I have not got any pictures currently of this - I will do some before this thread gets around to that stage.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#69 Posted : 28 June 2018 10:27:40

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Sorry this has been on the back bench for a heck of a time now.

I have been stockpiling pictures for quite a while, but have been reluctant to post anything until I had the engine painted up how I wanted it, and until recently, I didn't have the weather to do so.

Unfortunately, my mother passed away ten weeks ago. I haven't been able to work on getting pictures up as I have been spending as much time as possible going the 180 miles back home to clear the place, sort out what has meaning to me, what friends of the family would like, what is saleable, what is charity shop donation, and what is scrap.

I have also done the last two months worth of work without any pictures, I'm afraid.

I do hope to strip down the engine and paint it this weekend, with a small chance of getting it assembled again before early next week. If this happens, I may be up to getting some more posts up next week, but I haven't actually plugged my home PC in for most of that time, so I hope I can find all the leads!
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#70 Posted : 07 June 2020 13:44:23

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[Sheepish face]

I honestly didn't realise how long it has been since I left this thread hanging. Seriously, someone could have started this and almost finished it between these posts.

Apologies all round, and I will get back on with it. A lot of my model is in bits as I have started going into the mods lately. There are still a couple I am waiting on still, so it won't be going together very fast, but from here on, I aim to put up at least one update per week on this subject.

Today, I am fitting the Powermod from Modelmods and the Powermod plate from Mr Fusion Designs.

The Powermod replaces the supplied battery pack and allows the use of more power-intensive mods by using an adaptor to allow it to be plugged into an electrical socket. This normally requires drilling the correct sized hole in the battery box lid, and removal of the battery box itself.

However, when used in conjunction with the plate from Mr Fusion, the EM battery box, lid, and the internal box can be removed entirely. The outer surface is then replaced with the plate, which has been made with a carbon fibre effect sticker on the outer surface. I picked this up for the function, not the look, and wouldn't have minded it coming in standard carbon fibre black.

The connector from the Powermod is fed through the plate from the underside. This involves threading the rubber cap connector over the FIVE different connectors and along the wires until the ring is flush against the back of the connector. The wires are then passed through the hole in the plate and a nut is then passed down the wires and is used to secure the main connector in place.





The black rubber cover is used to protect the connector when it is not plugged in. The Powermod comes with this connector, an extension lead with an angled connector to go into the car, and a further lead which plugs into the supply.





I thought I had angled the connector so thsst the wires went directly through the slot in the frame, as the original wires did, but it looks like it twisted slightly as I tightened it. The wires are easily long enough, so that's not a problem, but I might correct that so I'm not stressing the wires at all.

I will still be working on smaller things on the build, but i am now waiting on the wireless switch mod from Modelmodz as I have just replaced the switch unit in the cab and therefore require something to activate those functions. I have already ordered it, so it should be just waiting for delivery.
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
Coser
#71 Posted : 02 November 2020 06:43:59

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Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
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I know I have not updated this thread in an age, but my work has completely stalled whilst I work on mods for this and work on other projects.

I am currently replacing the gold box that sits on the centre console. I found some prints from Shapeways after finding out that Mike Lane was selling the mesh that is supposed to go over the top and front of the box.

Well, there's no point getting mesh if all you see through it is the inside of the EM box, now is there?

The parts I received are reasonable FDM 3D prints, but I decided to go ahead and sand the external faces before airbrushing the structure gold. I will have to do more research on how the internal pieces are placed.

However, I have also found a couple of new mods from Mike Lane in the meantime. To fit alongside his previously released magnetic wheel caps, he is now taking pre-orders for magnetic train wheel caps and a bulkhead storage lid and "bailout" ball and wire mod to go behind the driver's seat. He is also doing a set of window protectors for those of us who have not finished our builds and don't want to scratch the windows as we continue working on the model.

He is also looking for interested people to register their interest in a mod that completely replaces the tracks supplied with the extended issues. There is no price on this one yet, but I expect it will be quite costly given what it comes with.

Two complete (single section) pre-rusted rails to replace the supplied 4-part ones.
Ten hardwood sleepers and twenty correct design railway ties(including a pair of spacers to get the spacing correct).
Two double sided printed inserts for the bottom of the display case. (Ballast stones/desert ground on one, wet look parking lot/parking lot with flame trails on the other.)
Real Rust painting kit for the tie plates.
Sheet of self adhesive grass tufts.
And an option to include proper scale ballast for between the sleepers
Current Builds
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods]
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton
Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031]
BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer
AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]

Finished Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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