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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Hi guys. Can those of you who have built this kit please help me? In Stage 19 of Pack 2 the instructions mention flipping over the aft middle deck pices and then simulating the deck planking. I assume this is so that the numbers aren't visible thru the entry port? I can't make it out from the instruction photos. My question is: just how important is it? Can the nubers actually be seen thru the entry ports if not doing the cutaway? Yes, you've guessed it I have not flipped the deck sections over. luckily i havent fitted them yet, so no biggy, but would rather not have to redo if not really necessary. Cheers Gray
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Hi Gray Although I haven't built this myself I would suggest just getting hold of a sheet of thin wood veneer (plenty on ebay) of the nearest colour to the decks and just cut out a few planks to line the floor around the inside of the entry point. Would save having to change everything around! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Hi Robin, thanks for the reply. Yes I had already thought of that and have planks I could have used as well. But looking at the size of the aperture I really don’t think it is worth the effort. I might be proved wrong - only time will tell. Cheers Gray
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Hi Gray, the chances of being able to see the deck part numbers through the entry ports is going to be very slim indeed, especially if you do not intend to do the cutaway section. The bigger concern would be when you come to add the planks for the next deck as you have the hold cutaways allowing you to see the deck below (hence the pencil drawn decking), and the part numbers may be visible looking down through the hold. That said, consider the fact the hold is mostly covered when fitting the ships boats so again, unless you look very closely, the chances of seeing the part numbers to me would be negligible. I don't think it is something you should be too concerned about...... ... Hope this helps.. Regards Alan
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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Thanks Al that was my thoughts too
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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There was one member years ago who planked the whole of the middle gun deck.
When asked why, he simply said that he was a purest and didn't have a choice.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
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Hiya Personally I used walnut veneer to plank my decks. I need to check the width and length of the planks but it looks mint and in scale too.
_DSC9870_edit
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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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That looks very good Tom, and as you say the vaneer looks true to scale on the photos.
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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Actually Tom, i just wondered if you had to amend the positioning or dimentions of the entry port when you did this? That was one of my concerns when thinking of planking the middle gun deck.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
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CaptnBirdseye wrote:Actually Tom, i just wondered if you had to amend the positioning or dimentions of the entry port when you did this? That was one of my concerns when thinking of planking the middle gun deck.
Hiya, to be honest I think I did something to adjust mainly gunports height as cannons would be lifted off deck slightly be thickness of veneer. It was so many years abo I can't remember exactly. You'd have think about what this would affect, on another hand t would be just slight modification as thickness isn't that much.
Sorry I couldn't be more of a help here ;)
Regards Tom
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,072 Points: 3,245 Location: Buckinghamshire
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tom.ganc wrote:CaptnBirdseye wrote:Actually Tom, i just wondered if you had to amend the positioning or dimentions of the entry port when you did this? That was one of my concerns when thinking of planking the middle gun deck.
Hiya, to be honest I think I did something to adjust mainly gunports height as cannons would be lifted off deck slightly be thickness of veneer. It was so many years abo I can't remember exactly. You'd have think about what this would affect, on another hand t would be just slight modification as thickness isn't that much.
Sorry I couldn't be more of a help here ;)
Regards Tom I am still building my Victory and a couple of years ago, I remember having the same dilemma regarding the location of the barrels through the ports. My answer to this (although the purists will shoot me!) was to reduce the height of the cannon side panels, thus lowering the barrels. If you have used veneer, then the reduction is probably minimal. Maybe one answer to the problem?
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