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 Rank: Superelite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Tony, Gray, thanks for your positive comments, very much appreciated....  Regards Alan
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Stage 126 Contents: Parts Fret, Single and Triple blocks.
Remove cleats HR5 and HR6 from the fret and recover cleats HR3 and HR4 supplied with stage 83, then paint or stain them. Refer to the instructions for the exact positions and glue the two HR6 cleats onto the bow rail, then glue four cleats HR4 and an HR3 cleat on the starboard side, in the waist. Glue the two HR5 cleats onto the starboard side of the quarterdeck. Repeat the process to fit the cleats on the port side.
Retrieve the mast tops prepared in previous stages. If you haven’t already done so then now is the time to paint them as outlined in the instructions. Paint the crosstrees and mast caps assembled in stage 125 using dark brown (RAL8014).
Recover masts BS1, BS2 and BS3 from stage 113 and paint them with wood stain. (I chose to stain them using and Antique Pine). Take one of the crosstrees and enlarge one of the centre holes so that it will fit 27mm down from the top of the spritsail topmast BS2. Open the other central hole to accommodate the wide end of the spritsail topgallant mast BS3. Now glue the spritsail topmast and the spritsail topgallant mast to the holes just made in the crosstrees. Now test-fit a mast cap in place adjusting the holes if necessary, then glue it in place.
Take the bowsprit BS1 and the bowsprit top. Glue the knee to the tapered end of the bowsprit ensuring it sits square. Test-fit and glue the bottom of the bowsprit topmast into the hole in the centre of the bowsprit top. It should rest on the end of the bowsprit.
Now take the foremast FM1 and mark a line 40mm in from the tapered end. Shape this section so that it is a 7.5mm square, then test-fit it in the aft opening of the foremast top T3 from stage 102. Adjust the fit if necessary. Now shape the ends of the fore topmast FM2, squaring them both to match the measurements shown in step 16 of the instructions, ensure the two squared sections are perfectly in line with each other. Test-fit the wider end into the forward opening of the foremast top and the narrower end into the aft opening of the fore topmast top T4 from stage 103. Now shape the wider end of the foretopgallant mast FM3 as shown in step 17 of the instructions, so that it fits in the central opening of the fore topmast top. Now stain the masts FM1, FM2, FM3 and FM4.
Glue the foremast top onto the top of the foremast, it should fit at a slight angle. Paint the mast cap T3-T from stage 115 dark brown (RAL8014). Then glue the fore topmast FM2 into place in the forward opening in the foremast top. Glue mast cap T3-T onto the top of the foremast and topmast. Now paint the cheeks T3-11 from stage 102 then glue them up against the bottom of the trestle trees of the top, on each side of the foremast. Paint the mast cap T4-T from stage 115, then glue the fore topgallant mast and mast cap into position. Paint and glue the cheeks T4-6 from stage 103 under the fore topmast top. Test-fit and glue a set of crosstrees, the fore topgallant mast and a mast cap into place, as shown in step 23 of the instructions.
Using the measurements in step 24 of the instructions, shape the mainmast MM1, main topmast MM2 and main topgallant mast MM3. Apply wood stain to these mast sections and section MM4. Assemble all the parts of the main mast, the assembly is the same as that for the foremast.
Now prepare the mizzenmast RM1 and the mizzen topmast RM2 to the measurements shown in step 27 of the instructions. Stain the sections along with section RM3. Assemble the parts of the mizzenmast as shown in step 29 of the instructions, the assembly is the same as that for the other masts.
Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with this stage number.
This stage is now complete.Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,086 Points: 3,287 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Stunning work and first class instructions, as always Alan.
Chris
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Thank Chris, appreciate the kind comments..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Neat and precise as ever Alan. Nice job on squaring off that mast end for the tops to go over. This is all going to look really nice when all the rigging starts to go on. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Thanks for looking in and for your kind comments Tony, appreciated.... .. Will be starting the rigging very soon and that is going to take time and patience judging by what I'm seeing in the instructions.... Regards Alan
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Lovely work Alan.   Mark Regards
Markwarren
(Mark) Admin
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,686 Points: 14,204 Location: ipswich
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Blimey! How tall is this going to be? Amazing work though. You could almost crawl around it all if you were small enough.
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 Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,239 Points: 6,837 Location: East Sussex
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Clean and precise work Alan well done. Regards Trev Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Stage 127 Contents: Stem Decorations, Double Blocks and Anchor Cable.
Remove the two stem decorations from the fret. Hold one of the decorations against the side panel and then mark the upper and lower edges of the perforated section onto the panel. Remove the decoration and then paint the marked area black (RAL9004). Repeat on the other side of the stem. Now follow steps 3 to 10 of the instructions to paint the stem decorations and when dry glue them into place.
Glue decoration C110 from stage 111 into place on the port side of the stem. Now glue decoration C111 from stage 109 to the aft end of the stem. Referring to step 14 of the instructions, glue the ten decorations to the unpainted parts of the stem decoration. The numbers in brackets indicate the stages in which they were painted. Repeat the process on the starboard side of the stem, referring to step 15 of the instructions.
Cut four 8mm lengths of 2x2mm wooden strip (cleats) and paint them with wood stain. When dry, glue the cleats to the bowsprit at the positions shown in step 17 of the instructions making sure that the cleats are aligned.
Now take two 5mm single blocks supplied with stage 114 and two lengths of 0.15mm natural thread. Tie a slip knot around each block and fix with a drop of glue. Tie the two blocks around the bowsprit topmast, just above the crosstrees so they hang about 15mm down, secure the knots with glue. Then drill two 0.5mm holes in either side of the mast cap and glue an eyebolt into each. Cut three 4mm lengths of 2x2mm wooden strip and paint them with wood stain. Glue the cleats you’ve just made to the underside of the bowsprit, aligned along the centre and at the positions shown in step 21 of the instructions.
Drill six 0.8mm holes through the ribs of the bowsprit top at the angle shown in step 22 of the instructions. Take six deadeyes DE2 supplied in stages 126 and 120 and paint them with wood stain. Cut an 80mm length of 0.5mm black thread from stage 125 and tie the thread around a deadeye, fix the knot with a drop of glue. Make sure to get the holes of the deadeye in the correct position. Prepare six deadeyes in the same way. Insert the lines of the six deadeyes through the holes made in the ribs, leaving the deadeyes about 8mm away from the rail and secure them there with glue. Tip: I found the best method to thread the lines through the holes was to use a needle threader. Take care to pull the thread through gently so as not to damage the top. Tie the lines of the forward deadeyes together under the bowsprit, up against the forward cleat. Apply a little glue to secure the know and then cut away the excess thread. Tie the other lines together under the cleats.
Tie six of the small deadeyes DE2 to 150mm lengths of 0.5mm black thread. Build a jig to rig the shrouds by following step 30 of the instructions. Insert the nails of the jig into the eyes of one of the top deadeyes and one of the shrouds you’ve just made. Pass the line up and over the crosstrees, between the two masts. Pull the line back around and secure it with glue, cutting off the excess line when the glue has dried. Remove the jig from the two deadeyes. Take 150mm of 0.15mm natural thread and make a knot at one end securing the know with a drop of glue. Now rig the two deadeyes together. If you’re unsure how to rig the deadeyes together then follow steps 35 to 36 of the instructions. Now connect the other deadeyes around the bowsprit top, following the order shown in step 37.
Insert and glue the bowsprit into place, making sure that it is centrally aligned with the hull. Cut a length of 0.5mm black thread (Note: the instructions say 600mm length however, I found this was far too short so cut to 1200mm instead. Tie the thread around the bowsprit, forward of the aft cleats. Apply glue to the know and cut away the short end of thread. Pass the thread down through the stem and into the gammoning hole in the stem. Pull the line through and pass it up and over the bowsprit. Do this another 10 or 12 times. Take the end of the line and wrap it around the gammoning 3 or 4 times. Tie a knot, secure it with glue and cut away the excess. Repeat the process to rig the forward gammoning.
Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with this stage number.
This stage is now complete.
This completes Pack 11 of the build.Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Wow, stunning work. just keeps getting better and better. Mark Regards
Markwarren
(Mark) Admin
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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,929 Points: 5,799 Location: UK
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I love seeing this come together. The Vasa was my introduction into ships, when I was 7 or so. My parents got me a book on underwater archaeology, and the Vasa was the featured chapter. With your colorful build, it doesn’t take a lot of imagination to see her on launching day!
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2011 Posts: 1,086 Points: 3,287 Location: Buckinghamshire
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Alan, I agree with all the comments so far. This really is a very professional model.
Brilliantly done.
Chris
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,686 Points: 14,204 Location: ipswich
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Blimey! Absolutely mind-boggling work there Alan. Amazing.
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Thanks everyone for taking the time to look in and for all the positive comments, the support is really appreciated.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/10/2016 Posts: 4,504 Points: 13,548 Location: Wiltshire
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Absolutely stunning work Alan! The complexity of detail with all of those embellishments coupled with your great skills makes this model something else! Regards, Phil W. Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
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Thanks for those kind words Phil, appreciated.... Regards Alan
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Pack 12
Stage 128 Contents: Sail S1, Figure and Brass Rings.
Using natural thread, attach two 5mm and two 4mm single blocks to the foremast and fore topmast, one of each on either side. Now attach two 5mm and two 4mm single blocks to the masts, just above the fore topmast crosstrees. Attach a 5mm block between the fore topgallant mast and fore royal mast, over the crosstrees, on either side. Drill a hole in the side of the mast cap and fit an eyebolt into both holes. Separate mast collar MB1 from the fret supplied with stage 122 and paint it with dark brown (RAL8014). Insert the foot of the foremast through the mast collar and hold it in place with a clip higher up the mast. Now insert the foot of the mast into the foremast hole in the deck, making sure the mast passes through all decks, then glue into place. Remove the clip and glue the mast collar to the deck.
Repeat all the above steps on the mainmast. Create the bindings around the mainmast by wrapping black thread around the binding is 6mm deep. Repeat this process to prepare the other four bindings in the positions shown in step 8 of the instructions. Prepare mast collar MB2 in the same way as MB1, then insert the foot of the mainmast into it and hold in place with the clip. Insert the mast through the hole in the deck and glue into place. Remove the clip and glue the collar into position.
Now prepare the mizzenmast, fitting the block and eyebolts as shown in step 11 of the instructions. Prepare mast collar MB3 in the same way as the others. Then insert the mizzenmast through the collar and into the hole in the deck. Pass the mast all the way down and then glue the mast and the collar into position.
At this point I noticed the instructions do not state the thickness of black thread to be used. On my build, I decided to use the 0.8mm black thread supplied in stage 70, for all the stays. Also, the lengths of thread quoted in the instructions should be checked against your build before cutting the thread as the measurements on your build may differ.
Tie a line of black thread around one of the triple blocks supplied with stage 126, then tie the triple block to the bowsprit, 42mm aft from the knee. Now follow steps 14 to 20 of the instructions to prepare and fit the forestay. (Note: check the positioning of the wrapping against your build, it may differ to that stated in the instructions).
Cut a length of 2x5mm wooden strip, paint with wood stain and glue to the front of the foremast. Cut another length of black thread and wrap some more black thread around it, covering a span of 80mm. Now tie the collar around the foremast. Tie a triple block up against the wrapped section and cut away the excess line. Now follow steps 24 to 27 of the instructions to prepare and fit the mainstay.
Prepare a 9mm piece of 2x5mm strip as before and glue it to the front of the mainmast. Paint a heart block (stage 126) with wood stain. Prepare another collar the same as before and fit it to the mainmast but this time using the heart block. Now follow steps 30 to 33 to prepare and fit the mizzen stay.
Now for the fore topmast stay. Cut two pieces of black thread, one 5mm long and the other 500mm long. Tie a 5mm block to one end of each line. Tie the 50mm line to the bowsprit, up against the knee. Pass the 500mm line through the fore topmast top, in the same way as the other stays. The block should be 100mm away from the block just fitted to the bowsprit. Tie the line into place then cut away the excess thread. Now tie a 5mm block to the end of a 350mm length of natural thread. Pass a line of black thread through the block, then lash a heart block to either end, 50mm away from each other. Follow steps 38 to 44 of the instructions to fit the fore topmast stay.
Follow steps 45 to 48 of the instructions to rig the next three stays (fore topgallant, maintop and main topgallant). These are similar to the earlier stays but with no blocks or lines wrapped around them.
Retrieve all the deadeyes DE1 and DE2 and paint them with wood stain. Follow steps 50 and 51 of the instructions to make up a total of 42 shrouds. I used 0.5mm black thread for the making up of the shrouds.
Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with this stage number.
This stage is now complete. Gandale attached the following image(s):
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