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Great to see you decided to carry on with this one Roy, looking great but from you that is nothing unusual.....  .. Look forward to seeing more..... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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Thanks Alan. I'm doing more to the engine at present. The manifolds have had the join seams filled and weld lines added around the engine flanges to fill the gaps there. The manifolds have also been repainted with steel, light gold, red oxide and matt black - all to weather them down a tad. The distributor and leads... Right... All leads cut off. All plug boots cut off. New leads using soft flexible wire, fitted by drilling into the lead boots on the dizzy cap and joining with small pieces of paper clip wire pushed into the holes and wires. I used a Mustang firing sequence diagram - posted below - to make sure the wires go to the correct places. In the kit, they don't. ...and yes, two of my leads are crossed - they are to be sorted... Low tension wires added to the coil and the coil and bracket repainted and foiled. Lots more to come... Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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Some really great work you have done there Roy. That extra detail makes all the difference. Mark
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 Rank: Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Love watching your work. You do all the stuff I don’t have patients to do. DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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Thanks guys. I do find it fun to add extra little bits. Apart from the added details, it also stretches the build out, otherwise these part-work kits could easily be assembled in a matter of days. There's nothing wrong with that, but at the overall cost, I like it to last a bit longer. Anyway, ignition timing order now sorted and the manifolds and sump are fitted. I've realised there's no top to the oil filter so that will have to be scratched even though it's no doubt invisible at the end. Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/01/2011 Posts: 606 Points: 1,747 Location: Canberra, Australia
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How did you paint the block blue??
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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The block is the colour of the supplied kit parts. Looking at Google reference, it's pretty accurate.
Roy.
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Looks great Roy  regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/01/2011 Posts: 606 Points: 1,747 Location: Canberra, Australia
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roymattblack wrote:The block is the colour of the supplied kit parts. Looking at Google reference, it's pretty accurate.
Roy. Yay good to know that the colour is accurate. :)
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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I've started work on the rear firewall in the engine bay. The kit panel is actually completely the wrong shape but I'm going to leave it alone as it is hardly visible at the end. However, the entire heater and air con system is missing from the kit and it amounts to some nice plumbing and wiring detail so I'm going to scratch make it and fit the parts. Also, the brake master cylinder has been dismantled and repainted the correct dark grey metal and light gold. I've also added the brake pipe fitting at the front of the unit and a vacuum hose connector to the reservoir for later pipe work. Also, the spring clip has been made and added over the top. On we go... Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Glad you got back onto this Roy, looks like the engine bay is going to be transformed with your mods Al
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1   Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/03/2016 Posts: 64 Points: 192 Location: Darfield UK
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Hi Roy. I can confirm the engine block colour is very accurate, it's the same as my 1:1 Mustang which is a 351 Cleveland, but all the V8's were the same colour. I agree with you that the gas cylinder in question should be the starter, mine is all matte black on the real thing. Cheers.
Tony
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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I've started to add some of the missing parts to the rear firewall. One of the first things I noticed was the hose from the front of the engine block that goes to the clutch housing - it shouldn't. It's totally wrong. When you think about it, why would hot water be going into the clutch? A google search of the actual heating system shows that the pipe should go through the firewall to connect to the heater matrix. Kit pipe removed - new rubber hose fitted. Also, there's another hose that should go from the front of the block near the oil filler, that also runs through the firewall. This hose is missing from the model. A mounting flange was cast and fitted, and the hose added. Next, the vacuum system has a unit that should be on the firewall to the left. This was scratch made and added. A hose was connected between it and the brake vac tank and another hose will be added between the unit and manifold. Two metal pipes were also fitted across the firewall - purpose not sure, but they should be there... The pics show the firewall loosely in place to test clearances. Relays and wiring need to be added to the side walls of the engine bay. That will be next. Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Is really great to watch your progress Roy  with all the little extras  regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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Thanks Phil. The firewall has been fitted to one side panel but there's some wiring and relays to add before this assembly gets put into the car. Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Awesome work!!! I'm doing the Shelby model also (see rpmracing18 build).
Roy, where do you get the coil wire feed at? I have looked everywhere and cannot find anything. Also, I see your plug wires too, AWESOME!!! What gauge wire did you use on your plug wires?
Any help is deeply appreciated, Rich
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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Hello Rich. Many thanks for your kind words. My coil reference pic is below. There should also be two wires for the radio suppressor going to the distributor but I didn't add those. (Have to stop somewhere) My ignition leads are wires taken from cheap headphones from a 'Pound' shop. I usually buy 5 sets at a time - enough thin wire for umpteen 1/8 scale models. Other wires are stripped out from old computer cables, mobile phone charger leads etc... Roy. roymattblack attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Roy, Lol, I'm not up on European lingo. What does pound shop mean? :)
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,643 Points: 14,072 Location: ipswich
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A pound shop is a kind of store we have in the UK where everything is less than £1 - about $1.40.
Roy.
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Ok In the US we have stores called dollar tree where everything is $1.00
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