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John Passmore
#21 Posted : 09 May 2014 15:56:52

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G'day all

Here's some progress photos of my SotS build to date; up to issue 9.
There have been no major problems so far except that my base board started to bow upwards in the centre (about 5mm) so she was in effect riding on the crest of a wave. Fixed it with a 1/4" bolt, wing nut and washers right through the workbench, so it's a nice flat surface again. Pic #1.

Rib nos. 13a & 15a are warped slightly leaning approx 5deg forward. They are glued nice and flat to their respective frames - the warp starts at the top of the frame. I think the fitting of the deck plates will align them correctly.

Frame 27 is only dry fitted, following Mr Tomicks' Official Build.

Have decided to infill the hull as per MWG's excellent tutorial and have made a start at the bow section.

Made a start also on the ships' boat - fiddley little critter isn't it?BigGrin

Cheers all,
JohnP
John Passmore attached the following image(s):
holding down bolt.JPG
perm fitting of frames.JPG
bow infill complete.JPG
start of hull infill.JPG
build to issue 9.JPG
frame 27 assy dry fitted.JPG
she's nice and straight and square.JPG
Gandale
#22 Posted : 10 May 2014 22:00:18

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Nice work John, she is starting to show her shape.... well done.... Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
George1
#23 Posted : 19 May 2014 04:04:08

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Hi John.BigGrin

Looking really good mate. Cool Cool

See you've started infilling on the bow. That looks good too. Cool Cool

Are you going for full infill after first decking?

It's going to be a lot of work but I think it will be worthwhile for the planking later. BigGrin

All to their own of course. BigGrin

Regards

George

PS. Sorry I missed your query on the Dremel. However I noticed today others have replied so you should be up to date on that. I have a Dremel as well as a much lighter cheaper 12 volt one. They both have similar gear but the 12 volt is much lighter and easier to handle for certain jobs and when higher speeds are needed I use the Dremel. The 12 volt- 18 volt kits are cheap at around $29.00. BigGrin
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#24 Posted : 20 May 2014 03:46:59

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G'day George

Thanks for your complimentary words of encouragement - and yes I intend to infill the hull, following MWG's excellent tutorial and additional help from Mr Gandale's build diary. One problem I had there, was in keeping the work steady and immobile in a safe and secure manner as I didn't want the model resting upside down on the tops of the ribs. Neither MWG or Mr Gandale seem to address this issue so I used a clamping system on my bench in the garage. It works well and the ship is kept safe and secure.
Pics below;

Thanks for the tip re the Dremel.
John Passmore attached the following image(s):
P1010174.JPG
P1010175.JPG
George1
#25 Posted : 20 May 2014 04:34:00

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Hi John

Good thinking and great idea re the clamping to save rib frames from possibility of breaking under pressure when upside down.Cool Cool

At this stage we don't have any decking or one tip I got from a query was to use doweling on a base in mast holes as a support when ship required to be upside down for things like infilling, painting, planking etc., to save breakage from pressure. BigGrin

Well done John. BigGrin

Regards

George
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#26 Posted : 22 May 2014 11:54:56

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George1 wrote:
Hi John

Good thinking and great idea re the clamping to save rib frames from possibility of breaking under pressure when upside down.Cool Cool

At this stage we don't have any decking or one tip I got from a query was to use doweling on a base in mast holes as a support when ship required to be upside down for things like infilling, painting, planking etc., to save breakage from pressure. BigGrin

Well done John. BigGrin

Regards

George


Hi George

Thanks for the tip re the doweling, I'll need to get some.

Went to the newsagent today and got issue 11 and have dry fitted the lower deck panels. All slotted in nicely except panel 31 starboard side. I had to tweak a couple of the rib slots a little bit. Frame 6 was the culprit - not quite square with the keel at about 1mm out.

In the interim, I have used a 9.5mm drill bit for the main mast locator and a 7.5mm drill bit for the after mast. Any idea what the mast diameters' are at the base?

Pics below:
John Passmore attached the following image(s):
lower deck dry fit 22-5-14.1.JPG
lower deck dry fit 22-5-14.2.JPG
lower deck dry fit 22-5-14.3.JPG
George1
#27 Posted : 22 May 2014 12:06:01

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Hi John. BigGrin

Looking the goods mate. Cool Cool

I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. BigGrin

As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand.BigGrin

I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting.BigGrin

Regards

George
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#28 Posted : 22 May 2014 15:49:48

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George1 wrote:
Hi John. BigGrin

Looking the goods mate. Cool Cool

I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. BigGrin

As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand.BigGrin

I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting.BigGrin

Regards

George


Hi George

The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently.
Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale.Confused

Regards
JohnP
Martyn Ingram
#29 Posted : 22 May 2014 19:20:05

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BigGrin Hi John just read the post the main mast is 10 mm with a taper down to 8 mm hopes this helps BigGrin Rgd Martyn

Building ?
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Gandale
#30 Posted : 22 May 2014 19:57:28

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John Passmore wrote:
George1 wrote:
Hi John. BigGrin

Looking the goods mate. Cool Cool

I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. BigGrin

As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand.BigGrin

I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting.BigGrin

Regards

George


Hi George

The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently.
Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale.Confused

Regards
JohnP


Hi John, from what I can see and looking from bow to stern thickness at the base of the masts are 8mm, 10mm and 8mm. The bowsprit is 10mm thick...Cool Cool .. This pic may help..

Hope this answers your query.

Regards

Alan
Gandale attached the following image(s):
Mast Plan2.jpg
John Passmore
#31 Posted : 22 May 2014 23:51:28

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Gandale wrote:
John Passmore wrote:
George1 wrote:
Hi John. BigGrin

Looking the goods mate. Cool Cool

I had to adjust slightly too at the bow as was a little tight till I did. BigGrin

As for diameter mast holes just need to measure holes in decking. I'm not sure offhand.BigGrin

I will have to measure up for doweling as well to make up a base after second deck on for bottom planking and any later painting.BigGrin

Regards

George


Hi George

The reason I asked about the mast diam is that the after mast bushing on the keel would only take a 7.5mm size bit - maximum. The hole in the deck is a loose 8mm. If the mast is any bigger, that bushing will have to be adjusted to suit before everything is enclosed permanently.
Maybe I should ask Mr Gandale.Confused

Regards
JohnP


Hi John, from what I can see and looking from bow to stern thickness at the base of the masts are 8mm, 10mm and 8mm. The bowsprit is 10mm thick...Cool Cool .. This pic may help..

Hope this answers your query.

Regards

Alan


Hi Alan

Thank you for your response and the mast dimensions - I can just make out the numbers! I've adjusted the after mast bushing to accept 8mm bit nice and snug. It was the slot in the keel slightly undersize.Cool

Regards
JohnP
George1
#32 Posted : 23 May 2014 02:24:39

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Hi John. BigGrin

Your query answered and mine as well regards measuring for doweling. BigGrin Thanks Alan. Cool Cool

Now to find a decent heavy base board to set it all up. I know there are tools with a bar clamp that would hold two pieces of doweling that have a heavy metal base that won't tip over however there is a limit to my budget. Laugh So the heavy base board will have to do. BigGrin

Regards

George
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#33 Posted : 23 May 2014 04:53:49

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George1 wrote:
Hi John. BigGrin

Your query answered and mine as well regards measuring for doweling. BigGrin Thanks Alan. Cool Cool

Now to find a decent heavy base board to set it all up. I know there are tools with a bar clamp that would hold two pieces of doweling that have a heavy metal base that won't tip over however there is a limit to my budget. Laugh So the heavy base board will have to do. BigGrin

Regards

George


G'day George

Luckily I've got a nice big jarrah workbench in the garage - weighs a ton.LOL
I'll drill a 10mm & 8mm hole in that for the mast dowels, then build timber supports to firmly clamp focs'l frame 2 and stern post 23. That should hold the old girl firmly. BigGrin

Regards
JohnP
George1
#34 Posted : 23 May 2014 15:21:49

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Hi John.BigGrin

Check out my thread, page 10, post 188.BigGrin

Andy has posted a build URL regarding a JIG for holding ships upside down. This one for the Victory, but easily adapted.Cool Cool

Worth looking at first before you do anything. Cool

Regards

George
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#35 Posted : 24 May 2014 13:34:15

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George1 wrote:
Hi John.BigGrin

Check out my thread, page 10, post 188.BigGrin

Andy has posted a build URL regarding a JIG for holding ships upside down. This one for the Victory, but easily adapted.Cool Cool

Worth looking at first before you do anything. Cool

Regards

George


G'day George

Thanks for the info re the jig on the Victory build - that is a really efficient method as well as economical. It will hold the deck plates in place at the same time as holding the model safely and securely. I will proceed with that.Cool Cool
Meanwhile here's some pics of progress so far;
John Passmore attached the following image(s):
immob.upside down.JPG
immob.upside down.2.JPG
infill top covers instal.JPG
MichaelKan
#36 Posted : 24 May 2014 15:11:25

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Hi John,

Looking great. I was trying to work out what to do when I need to turn the ship upside down to plank without damaging the ribs. Excellent ideas.

Regards,

Michael
George1
#37 Posted : 24 May 2014 16:33:42

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Hi JohnBigGrin

Your set up looks like it's pretty good. BigGrin

Ship looking good mate. Cool Cool

You'll find the infill a little tedious, but great once done. BigGrin

Regards

George
Building HMS SOTS
John Passmore
#38 Posted : 25 May 2014 04:35:23

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Martyn Ingram wrote:
BigGrin Hi John just read the post the main mast is 10 mm with a taper down to 8 mm hopes this helps BigGrin Rgd Martyn



Hi Martin

Thanks for the info - Alan sent me a data sheet from deAg which is very handy.Cool
Regards
JohnP
John Passmore
#39 Posted : 25 May 2014 04:41:50

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G'day all

Just an administrative enquiry....

I see my member status is 'unapproved'. Can anyone let me know what that means exactly? Do I need to do something to become approved?

Makes me feel like an interloperLOL Confused

Regards
JohnP
Tomick
#40 Posted : 25 May 2014 11:05:06

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No worries John, the system hadn't picked you up, is now resolved and congrat's on your first medal Cool .
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