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Display Body Fit Options
Carl71
#1 Posted : 06 February 2015 15:59:43

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Well I have painted my display body, which by the way looks awesome in the colours that Tomick recommends with the pearl finish - I highly recommend everyone do this but do not rush it takes a lot of time if you don't want to sand it back and start againCursing

I am very disappointed in the fit of the display body. It does not slide over the side board mating area and nose mating area without having to bend it and force it. As you work the front on the back pulls back away and visa versa. This is a major issue as unlike the racing body nothing actually holds the display body in placeHuh

Anyone else having this issue and if so any idea's on a solution. Personally I find in strange that there is no way to secure the display body onto the chassis?

Carl
Ian weaver
#2 Posted : 27 April 2016 17:07:55

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Carl

Im having the excact same problem, i havecto stretch it over the fuel tank and even then it still will not fit.

I have been advised by model space/deagostini to post here so today is the first ive know about this site.

Did you get anything resolved? It looks like a way of fobing us off.

NOT HAPPY AT ALL.
Tomick
#3 Posted : 27 April 2016 17:57:14

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Guy's,

We've not received any complaints about an ill fit of the display body from anywhere around the world where this model has been completed in.

Carl - The fitting of the display body near the fuel tank needs to be slightly stretched to go over the “LIP/Seal” around the fuel tank itself.
The display body being ABS plastic can take a fair degree of twisting if done carefully to get it over the fuel tank.
Its not a problem as such to get the body to fit just as long as you have used the appropriate adhesive suited to ABS plastic for the body parts, any other type of glue may cause the joints to split.

Ultimately this is an R/C car and the display body is fitted without fastening points so as not to detract from its scale look, which may mean there is a small gap of some degree.

If you have raced your model, then its possible you might have bent the chassis plate, which in turn will cause an ill fitting display body, therefore its worthwhile checking the chassis plate is completely flat.

Toby
#4 Posted : 20 March 2018 08:56:10

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Dear All,

I have the same problem, i.e. the display body does not fit. It is impossible to make the last 1/2 inch slide into place. This has nothing to do with the fuel tank and seem to be an issue further forward. Will I have to change the front suspension back to the initial table scratching level? I am about to complete the car after more than a year building time so chassi warping because of driving is impossible as I am yet to break in the engine.

The look is fantastic as I have followed the expert finish advise on this forum. However, not being able to display my creation is a huge disapointment given time and money wasted.

I have now broken both front sensor and side mirrors during the fitting process. The antenna was broken when I received it but for sure that is also sensitive when changing body.

It seems to me the gentlemen before me has had exactly the same problem. Unsure if resolved yet.

Any advice (and/or spare parts) would be appreciated.

Toby
Tomick
#5 Posted : 20 March 2018 10:09:36

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Perhaps post some photos here of your chassis to assist in identifying what your problem might be as it’s hard to determine something that can’t be seen., what I can tell you is that I has no problem with fitting the display body in the official build.

Info on “racing” ground clearance here:
http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=11718

If you need replacement parts, contact customer services with a note of which Isuue or Stage that contain the parts needed.
Toby
#6 Posted : 21 March 2018 04:46:14

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Lets see if I can figure out how to attach some photos. From prior to glueing the two parts together, I know the nose/front wing had no problem with the fit as it was once screwed in place. I am less certain with the main display body. Together they just dont slide all the way in place. Very annoying!

...no it will not allow my phone photos to be uploaded.
Toby
#7 Posted : 21 March 2018 06:43:24

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OK finally... with help from another post I have learned how to resize photos.

Took these this morning. Ground clearance is as per racing spec so should be OK in that respect.
Toby
#8 Posted : 21 March 2018 07:59:17

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Toby attached the following image(s):
xRB7 - 1.jpg
xRB7 - 2.jpg
xRB7 - 3.jpg
xRB7 - 4.jpg
xRB7 - 5.jpg
Toby
#9 Posted : 21 March 2018 08:11:47

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Finally it worked using resized photos to 500 horizontal pixels (which is less than the magical 140kB limit per photo that could have been an informative instruction) but not until I transferred the files back to my phone again and posted them from there. Anyway, any advice is welcome.
Tomick
#10 Posted : 21 March 2018 09:42:15

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Possibly its a misaligned glued 'display' front wing assembly onto the display body?

It's a little late now to re-test the fit of the display body up to the display front wing at the point of my photo #4.

I would remove the barge boards and vanes as they are delicate and so you can get a better look.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
RB1.JPG
rb4.jpg
Toby
#11 Posted : 21 March 2018 16:28:46

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Thank you Tomick for finding the reason to my problem and verifying that display front wing and main display body should never be glued together.

However, this puts me in a very confusing situation. All I have done is to follow the instructions given to me by Model Space. And indeed, the instructions tell me to glue these parts together. I even gave it the three minutes suggested to make the adhesive dry properly.
Toby attached the following image(s):
RB7 - 6.jpg
RB7 - 7.jpg
RB7 - 8.jpg
RB7 - 9.jpg
RB7 - 10.jpg
RB7 - 11.jpg
Tomick
#12 Posted : 21 March 2018 16:38:31

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It's hard to tell from your photos as to what is hindering the fit of your display body. Have you test fitted the racing body and racing front wing yet?

I would remove the barge boards and vanes as they are delicate and so you can get a better look.

The display body should slide backwards so that the rectangular cutaways in the nose sides accommodate the protruding front control arms - Make sure that the display body is sitting level with the bottom of the chassis.

The white line gap marker in the photo below on the underside is a clear indicator that something in the assembly is not quite as it should be.

Does your "racing" front wing fit in place ok on its own and did the 'display' front wing fit in place ok before the display body was added to it?

Can you post a photo of the rear of the car from above?
Tomick attached the following image(s):
xRB7%20-%202.jpg
Toby
#13 Posted : 22 March 2018 05:30:14

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I am aware this cannot be easy to resolve though remote viewing but I have posted some more pictures hoping it would give some clues.

- The remaining side boards are now off for better viewing
- Indeed, the picture you drew white lines on is capturing the focus of my headache. That is why I took that picture.
- I mounted the running (silver colour!) front wing without any problem. I also previously had no problem with mounting the display front wing before glueing.
- The racing body is yet to be completed. That is my next job but I wanted to complete my display car first.
Toby attached the following image(s):
RB7 - 12.jpg
RB7 - 13.jpg
RB7 - 14.jpg
RB7 - 15.jpg
RB7 - 16.jpg
Tomick
#14 Posted : 22 March 2018 07:54:03

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Can you post an overhead view of the entire top side chassis of your RB7
Toby
#15 Posted : 22 March 2018 12:22:08

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I am now out of the country. Will post more pictures on my return in two weeks time.
Tomick
#16 Posted : 23 March 2018 15:46:07

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I can see nothing at the forward end of your chassis that would prevent your display body from sliding backward onto the chassis.
Therefore I suspect its something within the nose that is preventing the body moving backward by what looks to be 6-8mm or so., And as the nose now has very limited access, its difficult to see what the cause/obstruction might be and therefore difficult to resolve.

An option to consider is to cut-off approx 8mm from the end of the nose support (as highlighted in the photo below) which should allow the body to move further backwards.
It will mean that the end screw cannot then be fitted into the underside of the forward nose mount, though the nose should still be secure onto the chassis with the four remaining screws. At worst you could always request a replacement issue which contains the nose support if the cut-off does not do the trick.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
xRB7%20-%204.jpg
Toby
#17 Posted : 08 April 2018 08:57:13

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Ok, I am back. Please see photos with overhead view of the entire chassis. Strictly following instructions where everything seems to be put together nicely, the display body still does not slide all the way and as a result is sticking up quite a bit at the rear of the RB7.
Toby attached the following image(s):
RB7 - 17.jpg
RB7 - 18.jpg
Tomick
#18 Posted : 08 April 2018 09:03:33

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Toby wrote:
Ok, I am back. Please see photos with overhead view of the entire chassis. Strictly following instructions where everything seems to be put together nicely, the display body still does not slide all the way and as a result is sticking up quite a bit at the rear of the RB7.
Without being able to see what the conflict is within the nose, I think your only way forward would be to make adjustment at the very end of the nose support as mentioned at post #16. It certainly seems that the problem lies within the nose.
Toby
#19 Posted : 08 April 2018 09:05:36

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Investigating the matter, I attached some blue tack where the problem seems to be. After trying to fit again I could see on the imprint that indeed there is not enough clearence within the nose. The third picture shows the yellow lip that seemse to infringe on the available space. The lip should be there as per instuctions but it ought to be shaved down. This is tricky given the lack of available space.
Toby attached the following image(s):
RB7 - 19.jpg
RB7 - 20.jpg
RB7 - 21.jpg
Tomick
#20 Posted : 08 April 2018 09:11:39

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Perhaps a long needle file might do the trick?
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