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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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I should have had the next 4 issues up by now, but whilst taking the pictures I noticed that something didn't look right. My 'right' palm has an 'L' on one of the finger pieces, and indeed, the thumb is looking like it's making a left hand. Have e-mailed Hachette CS, but no reply yet. Also, the last joint before the thumb attaches to the palm is very loose. The pin for this looks to be around 1mm too long. I will get more pictures up over the weekend. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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I am sorry that there has been a disruption on my builds. Unfortunately this has been down to my mental health taking a hammering due to my job. I can't and won't bore you all with the details, but suffice to say that the situation has been resolved by me handing in my notice and I no longer work there. I have been continuing the build, but now have some more mods on the way, so will have to eventually strip the build back to install new eyes to go with the teeth mod I have already installed. I hope you can beaar with me until I get back into the swing of this build. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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And I may very well be cancelling my subscription to this. This partwork has been one problem after another for me. I have already detailed the problems and delays caused by having the wrong palm in the correct issue. Well, this seem to be a reoccurring issue with Hachette, at least so far as their dealings with me. Today (1st February) I received my latest delivery - with the delivery note dated 3rd JANUARY! Now, I cannot lay this squarely in Hachette's lap as the delay could be theirs, the post office, or neighbours having taken it in and only just having got it to me. As there is no franking on the label, I can't tell. However, back in NOVEMBER my delivery consisted of two single copies of two different issues, and two copies of a third issue. I had no reply to my e-mail, and nothing further happened. My December delivery was without incident, four different issues. Still no sign of the missing issue from the November issue. Calling CS was a nightmare, the phone was never answered. Then I read they were changing the company and gave it a while. When I called again, the call was taken quickly, and I spoke with someone who told me that a replacement for the mising issue was going to be sent out, so I waited. I'm waiting still. It was NOT in the delivery I received today. Worse, we are back to the same state of affairs I was in back in NOVEMBER. Two different issues, two copies of the same issue, and one issue absent. Two months out of three, Hachette have messed up my collection, and my hope they can pull themselves out of this mess is dwindling by the day. I still have no faith in sending them another e-mail, and i'll have to wait until Monday to see if I can call them again - at my expense as it will have to be from a mobile. This is triggering my Asperger's and adding to my problems, so I may just give them until the end of February to catch me up to where I should be, or I cancel outright. I was also looking forward to the Spitfire Mk1a they are about to release, but that hangs in the balance too. Fed up, really astonishingly fed up, full of the flu, and amazingly fed up and unwell. Was looking forward to getting on with something today, only to find that I will have to wait AGAIN for someone else to sort it out. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,191 Points: 23,661 Location: East midlands
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Hi Coser, I don`t know if this reply will make you feel better or worse, but my recent dealings are not much better. Some while ago I tried to subscribe to the WARHAMMER 40,000: CONQUEST collection and after three acknowledged applications never received a thing. Fast forward to the Warhammer Age of Sigmar collection and issue one is already out of stock. Then when you go to any "Shop now" link, it has for weeks be telling people that they are moving warehouse and to let them message you when things are back to normal. What ever normal is. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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i would give yourself time to get over your symptoms, look at this as time out to allow you to recover then hopefully things will sort themselves out, and you will be in a better place. just my thought.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2017 Posts: 531 Points: 1,710 Location: Midlands, UK
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I hear you Coser. Whilst I haven't had any real delivery issues I was becoming very unhappy with the quality of this model. Floppy fingers, dodgey floppy wrist joint, a shoulder that doesn't rotate as the internals just jam up and it's all sealed up with a part glued onto it. On top of all this we now have badly mis matched part colours - we have gone from chrome to a dull grey/brown looking colour. I've also had parts crumble to bits on assembly which had to be replaced. In the end I have cancelled my subscription to this and listed it all for sale. I do hope you manage to get all your problems sorted out and feel better soon. Building: Ghostbusters Ecto-1, Ford GT40, Gone in 60 seconds Eleanor mustang, Shelby Cobra Complete: R2D2, Red Bull RB7 RC, Battleship Bismarck, Shelby GT500 'super snake'
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Sorry to hear that Semaj, I will admit, however, that the colour of the parts does not worry me. Having received two copies of the first thoracic cage part, I have done a little demonstration on one. As I was a modeller first, and came to partworks later, I have a number of airbrushes and a compressor. I have also got an interest in how things are made for TV and movies. As such I watch Adam Savage's "Tested" channel on Youtube. It was here that I heard about the product I used. Molotow seem to be a company that manufacture permanent markers. Adam Savage used their Liquid Chrome refill to improve the looks of a foam LARP sword for a costume he was doing for a Comicon. The liquid in the refill is the correct consistency to run through an airbrush, and he had no problems using it. I had a bit more trouble, I ended up touching the part before the stuff was fully cured - thinking that permanent marker ink would dry almost instantaneously. It doesn't, and takes a little while to properly cure. I am not particularly worried, as for the rest of the work on the Terminator I will be spraying whole parts and not fiddling with masking to show the difference between coated and non coated on the same part. I hope the two pictures do this justice, the difference in real loife is astounding, and I will be using it on all the parts that do not match the colour of the chrome parts. As I am still unable to continue the build due to missing issues, I plan on working on the colour any day I am able (weather constraints, etc.), let the parts cure properly, then replace them in the packs to prevent damage. In the top picture, the standard colouration is furthest away, with the sprayed half closer to the camera. In the second picture, the treated half is on the left. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Molotow chrome takes forever to harden and even then it is not a very durable finish.I saw a guy on youtube that does matchbox car restorations use the spectraflame clear coat over the molotow and it still retained the chrome shine and made the finish much more durable.usually when you try to clearcoat a chrome effect paint it loses its shine.
Carl
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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OK, so I FINALLY got through to Hachette CS this afternoon. They confirmed that my issue 25 is on back order, apologised for the delay but it's down to the change of warehouse, and put in for my replacement issue 34 too. However, they are not allowed to confirm or deny any speculation on how long it will take, as the warehouse is concentrating on getting out the current issues to subscribers. I WAS going to cancel my subscription, but one piece of information I wriggled out of them was that if I wanted to re-start my subscription later on, once I had a better chance of getting what I should be getting, then I WOULD NOT be able to start a new subscription - or re-start the original one - from the point at which I left off. No, I would have to start receiving subscription issues from wherever they were at the time. The issues from when I was not a subscriber, I would have to order from their shop, providing they have one online at the time - which they don't at the moment or I would have just ordered the issues I need and saved myself the hassle. So I could have been setting myself up for £100's to pay in a lump sum to get back into the game - and I do want that Terminator figure. However, this is a lot of hassle and I can certainly understand anyone who wants to just say goodbye to all the hassle and stop collecting this partwork. I can only hope that things are running more smoothly with the recently released Spitfire model. That is another one I would have liked to collect, but now I might just have to pass. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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So here we are, another 2 months further on from my last update. I have not been able to build on this project for 6 MONTHS now due to still not having received my missing issue 25 and 33. Tomorrow I will call CS once again and let them know they can stick a fork in me, I'm done. It depresses me how much money I have spent on this now, with the publisher either unwilling or unable to rectify this for me. I'm not going to pay E-bay's inflated prices, but I might see if my local newsagent can get the back issues for me, and if he can get them in a reasonable timeframe, I might just carry on the subscription with him. I have the weapon already, but don't know if there's anything else that is subscriber only yet to come. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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And although I think their warehouse staff need a talking to, some of the CS people really deserve a raise. Six months, several calls to CS, and two attempts to unsubscribe, and I now have my missing issues. The very nice woman I spoke to last week when I was going to quit found out that they had the issues in the shop. I still don't understand why if they had them in the shop, I hadn't had my missing issues, but she ordered them for me and they turned up today. I now have to look out the rest of the collection, but should have some more progress up by the end of the week, with a possibility of the remainder coming next week. Guess now I'll have to spray that second rib cage piece, and get it lacquered properly. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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OK, here is my latest update. I have the rest of the issues, but am holding on working past where I am today whilst I chrome spray the Thoracic components and lacquer them. Then I will take them apart again and carry on with the build once more. For now, though, here is what I have done since the last update. Part 25. Completing the shoulder joint. The first component is made from two parts. The back plate is glued in, having a spine that goes in between two internal walls. The plastic components are now lined up in order to be inserted into the shoulder. The two part component goes up at the top, with the inserted part at the rear in this picture. Second part going clockwise is now fitted. This is the thinner single attachment. Third part, the double connector, goes in the 3 O'clock position. I could not find any particular reason to be concerned as to which way up this component went, although there is a slight difference in the ends of the connectors. This only seems to affect which end you put the plastic tube in through later. The fourth part is the thicker single connector, and is placed in the 6 O'clock position facing the opposite direction to the second part. The final connector is a straight out connector fitted in the 9 O'clock position. This is the position that has the circular cut-out. The spring is then clamped between this assembly and the back plate. There is a circular impression in both parts that trap the spring in position so it pushes the shoulder outwards so that the ring locks against the plates in the outer shoulder cover. The plastic detail is then glued into place. The final step in this issue is gluing in the 90° connector into the shoulder. There is a key, so it should be easy to work out which way it goes, but mine still had a fairly large amount of 'wiggle room', making it a little harder and requiring holding until the glue had set sufficiently. At the end of this issue, we will have an assembled shoulder (minus the shoulder blade) and a single piece which is the elbow pivot. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Issue 26. If you have already screwed these two parts of the elbow together, you will now need to take them apart. Issue 26 includes a couple of small washers, one to go on each side of the piston connection. Ensuring that the washers don't fall off, the piston can be clamped between the two parts. With the front piston now connecting the upper arm and forearm, the pin left over from last issue is used as the hinge for the elbow. Note the flat surface in the hole for the pin. There are two of them and they correspond with the two flat areas of the pin. When the pin is correctly inserted, these areas stop the pin rotating With the pin through the elbow, it is screwed in from the other side. After which there is a plastic part that gets glued in. Although the plastic part is glued over the screw, there is a hole in this part so the screw is still visible afterwards. The only reason I can think of for this part not being put in place first is that it prevents possible scratching of the part as the screw goes in. And the outer piston connector can be screwed in. Unfortunately I can't find the picture of putting this in, but there is a specific way they want you to do it. There is a recess for the head of the screw in one side of the piston, and this is upwards in the picture. Personally, I don't see that it makes any real difference, but this way the head of the screw will be on the inside of the part so it is less visible. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Issue 27 (?) I can't remember if this is actually the issue number, so i'm not going to include them now until I am fully caught back up and able to go back to an issue at a time. Not much to do this time, finishing a detail on the first shoulder, and starting the second. Take these two plastic parts and glue the end on this little cylinder. Which then is glued over the small 'wall' in the shoulder. That completes the first shoulder so far, now we start on the second. Glue the ratchet into the shoulder piece. Turn it round and then glue the second ratchet in the other side. The last part is not used in this issue, so I will continue next time. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Since my last update, I have been busy getting the thoracic cage sprayed with my Molotow Liquid Chrome. I still have to take care of the top of that assembly as that is where I have been holding it so far. The rest has had the Chrome, been left for a week or so, then a coat of Alclad lacquer, and given another week of curing. This is the result so far. The final chrome shoot should be today. I have just had my latest delivery, so I want to be back on with the build before I get another delivery again. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Pro Groups: registriert
Joined: 13/03/2012 Posts: 306 Points: 847 Location: Germany
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sorry for posting in your construction report.
I also considered a long time whether I would order the T-800. There are 4 problem areas that have to be corrected in any case. The eyes, the wrist joints, the teeth and fingers ,This is a much needed fix floppy fingers is a no go especially if the T-800 must hold things. Now I have ordered T-800 and received the necessary modifications. Just a pic from the Modified teeth. In UK you got a Excellent shop with a excellent service. Shop is called Modelmodz. There you get all the parts you need. The pic shows the Modified teeth.
Best AndreasForum Support Team http://www.model-space.com/de/
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Andreas, So far as I am concerned there is no need to apologise for posting information on the T-800 in a T-800 build thread. It is relevant information, and I have been slow to update of late. Turns out that not only do I have an Autism Spectrum Disorder, I likely have ADHD as well. This is not only the reason for the long silence, but the cause of the massive effort I have just put in. I am now up to issue 52. I will finish that issue tomorrow as my camera is flat. Once that is done, I will be transferring the pictures to Imgur, and updating this thread with my progress. I have all of the mods you mention, and all are installed on my build. The only problem I have had was there was a hidden bubble in the wrist joint I used, and the metal insert came out. I have glued and filled the insert back in, and should shortly be able to re-attach the wrist. Unfortunately I have, in the meantime, misplaced the three small pistons that conect the wrist to the arm, hence I have pictures of the current state of the build with no hand on. This should be rectified soon. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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OK, so here goes with the next update. Firstly, this is the state of the right wrist, showing where the insert came out. I had not over-tightened this, but after installation I noticed that the wrist was getting looser. I re-tightened it, thinking I would keep an eye on it as it may need a little glue to stop the screw from undoing in the insert. It started to come loose again, and this is what I found. I have since re-glued the insert and glued filler into the gap. I hope this holds, as otherwise I will probably have to destroy the mod to get it out without damaging the arm component and then have to buy a second issue with the left joint and go back to Hachette's supplied joints. This is my painted Thoracic cage. I must point out here that this is in no way required. These pieces will be completely covered with plastic parts later on in the build and will NOT be visible on the completed model. Having said that, let's get cracking. Issue 32 In this issue, we will join the right arm to the right shoulder, and add a connector so later we will be able to join both shoulders together. First, we glue the usual black plastic piece into this metal component. This is the component that will go to the inside of the shoulder and alow the shoulder to move forward and back slightly. Note the back of the component has a 'U' shape. This fits around the 'I' in the shoulder, so they can only go together one way round. This would be looking at the joint from underneath. Then take this piece from an earlier issue, and the smaller component suplied this time. They fit together like this, and make up part of the shoulder joint. They fit into this side of the shoulder, opposite the side with the detail glued on previously. And the arm is now offered up to the shoulder like this. The pin is then pushed through from the other side And screwed in using a Hex screw and the Allen key provided previously. That is the end of issue 32. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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Issue 33 Detail for the left shoulder, and another part for the connection between the shoulders. Glue the end onto the detail piece. Which then goes onto the left shoulder like so. Glue the other connector, a repeat of last issue. And install, also as last issue. I also used this as an excuse to make the hydraulic parts that go in the bottom of the Thoracic cage. The hemispheres fit through the holes in the larger end of the cylinder, and are screwed together surrounding it. Make both units, and that was that. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/01/2017 Posts: 572 Points: 1,731 Location: Cambridgeshire
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With all the flitting around due to painting the Thoracic cage, we are now actually up to issue 39. This is the final component for the connection between the shoulders, and will allow us to bring the head, arms, and the start of the torso together. Not many parts, but a lot of progress this issue. Glue the two discs in - as we have done for soooo many joints before. Take TWO of the split washers, put one in one of the holes, followed by the nut. Ensure the nut is flat face down when it goes into the hole. Place the other split washer on the shaft of the screw. Screw the connector to one shoulder like this. Repeat for the other shoulder. I then had to strip down my Thoracic cage to this stage, where you will probably have to build it up to this stage. Ensure that the rubber parts are installed correctly in each side of the cage. The ones for the ball joints are the ones with the cut-out on this side. The neck joint ones I don't know if it matters, but I ensured they were flush with the edges of the metal component they were in. The arms were slid over the large post at the top of the cage, the two smaller, unsecured posts sit underneath this assembly. The head was positioned so the circular piece on the lower end of the neck sat in the rubber parts, and the two pistons were placed in the spherical parts at the bottom of the cage. The front of the cage was then replaced, ensuring the posts were seated correctly, and then screwed together. It looks like from now on we will be adding to this unit each month with minimal saving parts for the next delivery. And that's it for this issue. Current Builds Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean [Installing Mods] Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton Agora Models Shelby Cobra 427 [Plate 031] BanDai 1:5000 Imperial Star Destroyer AMT 1991 U.S.S. Enterprise Bridge [Installing Mods & Lights]
Finished Builds Deagostini: R2-D2 [Never getting batteries]
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