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Dodge Chrger R/T Pack 4 Options
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#1 Posted : 08 August 2020 00:11:11
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Hey, it’s June 25th, and we are starting Box 4. There are a lot of parts as is evident from the photo. We’ll start building the engine.

Stage 13
OK here goes. Grab the bag with the engine block halves.

Step 13.1 This is the oil filter and mounting assembly. Get the 2 parts, oil filter, the filter mount and 2 AP screws.Assemble. Pay attention to the tab on the oil filter. The filter mount has a slot to fit to.

Step 13.2 and 3 Flip the engine block half over to mount the filter assembly. Use 1 AP screw to join the filter assembly to the block.

Step 13.4 Choose the correct engine mounting bracket (13f and 13g are different), mount to engine block half with mounted oil filter, use 2 AM screws.

Step 13.5 Put the gearbox (transmission) to your completed engine block half just completed. Mount with 2 AM screws.

Step 13.6 Put 13d and 13g together with 2AM screws.

Step 13.7 Join left and right engine block halves together with 2 AM screws. Screws are recessed in block half 13d.

Step 13.8 Attach the oil pan 13e to the bottom of the block with 2 AM screws. NOTE the sump goes forward.

Step 13 is complete. Makes for a big, heavy motor.
admin attached the following image(s):
13.1.jpg
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13.4.jpg
13.5.jpg
13.6.jpg
13.7.jpg
13.8.jpg
13 complete.jpg
“Never let the future disturb you. You will meet it, if you have to, with the same weapons of reason which today arm you against the present.”

Marcus Aurelius
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#2 Posted : 08 August 2020 00:13:23
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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Points: 5,330
Location: Nevada, US
Stage 14;

Step 14 Puts the oil filler caps, heads and valve covers onto the completed block and transmission.

Step 14.1 Pick the correct valve cover 14c as per the picture. Put one of the oil filler caps on with ! DP screw. Cap flange should not touch the valve cover.

Step 14.2 put the filler cap cover on. Carefully press on.

Step 14.3 The heads, 14a and 14b are the same.put one on the left side of the engine block with the exhaust ports facing out. Use 2 CM screws to connect.

Step 14.4 Put the assembled valve cover on the installed head. The oil filler cap goes forward and to the inside. Use 4 CM screws to mount. Do not over tighten.

Steps 14.5-6 repeat for the other side. Mount head 14b with exhaust ports out.

Step 14.7 Mount remaining valve cover with the filler cap to the rear of the engine.

Stage 14 is complete. We will continue with the engine build in Stage 15.
admin attached the following image(s):
14.1.jpg
14.2.jpg
14.3.jpg
14.4.jpg
14.5.jpg
14.6.jpg
14.7.jpg
“Never let the future disturb you. You will meet it, if you have to, with the same weapons of reason which today arm you against the present.”

Marcus Aurelius
admin
#3 Posted : 01 October 2020 17:21:17
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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 1,743
Points: 5,330
Location: Nevada, US
STAGE 15

Box 4 Stage 15

We’ll build up the intake manifold, get it mounted. Then take a step back to find assemblies we did awhile back. The supercharger and the air intake unit or the hat. The supercharger will be installed on the intake manifold, injectors and fuel lines will be put on the hat.
The engine is really starting to take shape. It’s already big and heavy. When the intake manifold and the supercharger go on, it’ll really start to become impressive.

The first five steps build up the intake manifold. Next two steps install the supercharger, lastly, the injectors and injector fuel lines are installed on the hat. Be careful with the plastic chromed parts. Don’t overtighten the screws, be careful not to scratch the chrome. Use a microfiber cloth to keep the chrome clean and shiny. In the movies that starred the Charger, the car was kept immaculate except for some scenes involving a chase in the dirt. Wrong tires the dirt.

Put 15a and 15b together, match the step molded on the 3rd intake manifold part to the step on the 1st part 15a. The intake manifold is complete, now would be a good time clean up fingerprints on valve covers and the intake manifold.

Supercharger mounting plate, 15d, rear of supercharger 15e and the supercharger should be put together. Carefully remove the hat from the supercharger. There are 3 locating pins that need to be taken care of. Keep parts clean.

Time for gas. There are 10 injectors, this step uses 8 and 8 injector fuel lines. I laid out all the fuel lines to get them orientated correctly. Put the hat on something soft so as not to scratch. Flip the hat over and check the orientation of the fuel lines. Each end of the fuel lines should be installed at 90 degrees to the fuel block on the back of the hat and at the injector plate on the hat. The instructions will call out the correct places to insert the fuel lines on the fuel block and the injector plate. Weaving fuel lines and patience required. Insert both ends completely. They will all fit.

Stage 15 is complete. The engine just keeps getting bigger and bigger. Bonus photo. Try to keep things clean and shiny.

admin attached the following image(s):
15 blister.JPG
15.1.JPG
15.1A.JPG
15.2.JPG
15.3.JPG
15.3A.JPG
15.4 and 5.JPG
15.7.JPG
15.8.JPG
15.9.JPG
15.10.JPG
15 complete.JPG
“Never let the future disturb you. You will meet it, if you have to, with the same weapons of reason which today arm you against the present.”

Marcus Aurelius
admin
#4 Posted : 01 October 2020 17:26:31
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Groups: Administrator, Administrators

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 1,743
Points: 5,330
Location: Nevada, US
STAGE 16

Box 4 Stage 16

This is the last stage of Box 4. We’ll assemble the distributor, water pump, timing cover and plug wires. It’s a pretty quick stage, but requires patience when handling the distributor, both in building and mounting it and installing plug wires. The stem under the distributor to the mounting plate is long and the mounting plate could be damaged if mishandled.

Again, keep your cloth handy. Everything is starting to crowd all the chrome. Clean first, build later. Betcha know who already made that mistake, redo’s not much fun.

The first photo is the blister, check your parts. I had parts fly taking the blister apart. Seems like I have more trouble with the blister packs and screw bags, oh well, on to the build.

I found that I needed a ruler, metric marked, and a hobby knife or a sprue cutter. The first plug boot I broke off left a plastic spur. Made it impossible to install on the distributor until I shaved it off. Again, be careful when handling part 16c.

Mount the distributor to the water pump. Next, put together, what seems to be an idler pulley that the fan will mount to, it is called out as the fan sprocket. The two bushings must be installed on the pulley so that there are two belt grooves. See the picture. Install the pulley, on to the timing cover.

Installing the timing cover and the water pump, distributor assembly The CM screw hole on the right side of the water pump is not counter sunk, don’t over tighten. No other surprises.

Measure up the plug wires and install as the instruction show. I wanted to measure the wires as I proceeded so as to not make a mistake. I used a toothpick to stretch the tubing a little so as not to push on the distributor to hard. I still supported the distributor as I put the tubing on the plug boot, just to make sure I didn’t break it off. I went slow and it all worked out. I did, however, have to find a flashlight so that I could see the tubing go on to the plug boot.

Box 4 is complete. I looked ahead at Box 5. More motor fun, alternator, pulleys, belts, fan blades and the exhausts. The motor gets put into the front clip, and the steering box gets built.

The motors a beast and gets beastier.
admin attached the following image(s):
stage 16 blister.jpg
15.1.jpg
15.2.jpg
15.3.jpg
15.4.jpg
15.6.jpg
15.7.jpg
IMG-0658.JPG
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“Never let the future disturb you. You will meet it, if you have to, with the same weapons of reason which today arm you against the present.”

Marcus Aurelius
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