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Engines,engines, engines Options
kpnuts
#1 Posted : 14 August 2021 17:33:03

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Hi all some people have said they thought my engines looked very realistic (I think it helps in that most of my life I've been around or worked on either motorcycle or car engines) so I thought if anyone wants to know how I do any aspect of weathering an engine they could just ask or if it would help maybe I could try and post a video (pretty rubbish at social media) 

Here is a random sample of the hundreds of engines I must have modeled over the years 






Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#2 Posted : 18 August 2021 21:01:45

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Hi all so the first installment, I'm basically the laziest modeler ever and if there's a short cut or an easy way to do something I'm there.

So heres the first bit of aging an engine, since I'm working on an engine atm I decided to use that as the first example.

First requirement talcum powder.



Here's our nice clean engine




I use enamels so in this case I dip the brush in white spirit before picking up some talc(you can use water but you would have to matt the engine first as the water will just bead otherwise) I then dab the loaded brush on the engine (really load it all up with the white spirit and talc)once that's done flood with white spirit till it looks how you want.




I used gun metal from ABT



To highlight the bolt heads.



I then dust it all with Uschi powders



Then buff that with a soft brush






My ref pic



This is going to end up being a very long post as I have lots of stuff to add to it (assuming you want it)
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
admin
#3 Posted : 19 August 2021 06:07:13
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Ken, this is outstanding! So much so that I’m going to move it into the tutorials section.

THANKS!

Mark
“The charm of fishing is the elusive pursuit of the attainable, a perpetual series of occasions for hope”

John Burton
kpnuts
#4 Posted : 19 August 2021 06:24:44

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Thanks Mark, ive barely started
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
bfam4t6
#5 Posted : 20 August 2021 16:12:46

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Your engines do look great Ken! I’m following this. Never thought or heard if using talc powder before, so I can already add that to my “learned something new” list. Thanks for sharing!
-Dustin

“Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail.”
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Currently Building:
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roymattblack
#6 Posted : 20 August 2021 16:22:12

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Well done Ken. A great help to all the modellers who sometimes want things to look 'older'. Keep it going.

Roy.
kpnuts
#7 Posted : 20 August 2021 21:25:39

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Thanks guys.
Hi all well I have been given lots of ref pics of this engine and none of them are as distressed as this is, so a bit of white spirit and a cotton bud and it's looking more like it should.



So next method, here is the sacrificial engine for this example (and for most of the others)



OK as I said at the start of this I use mostly enamels so I can't say if this works with acrylics (although I've found in the past adding washing up liquid to the solution tends to have the same effect as white spirit)

If you want an engine that looks like it's been in a dusty environment (as in my mad to the max bike) 

Get an empty tin or bottle into that pour some matt colour of the earth in the area your engine has been driving in ( for the mad to the max bike I used sand as it was set in a desert, for this I've used earth)

Add talcum powder to it and mix keep adding talc till you get paste like consistency then add white spirit keep stirring till you get the consistency of milk, add the talc to the paint first don't thin it till you've added the talc as the talc doesn't seem to take the colour if you thin the paint first.

OK so use a big brush and load it with this mixture and dab it all over the engine(really cover it so it gets in all the nooks and crannies, then load your brush with white spirit (this is the important bit hold engine as it will be in the car or bike and flood the engine with white spirit just let gravity do its thing.




This is how it looks when dry



All the plastic parts I dab with ABT copper oxide blue patina

And again blend with white spirit

I also add ABT engine grease anywhere you might expect an oil leak



Ken's the name modeling's the game.
Kev the Modeller
#8 Posted : 21 August 2021 16:23:06

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Glad to see that you've cleaned up that Cosworth F1 engine Ken, looks much better. F1 engines are rarely allowed to get so grubby, they're usually kept in peak condition and lovingly maintained, all with an eye on reliability and performance.

Great that you realised that and corrected it and it looks better for it, so well done! Looking forward to seeing your JPS Lotus build develop, who doesn't love the old black and gold GP cars - luvverly! DroolCoolThumpUp

Kev
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RM1
#9 Posted : 25 August 2021 15:42:11

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Thanks Kev, this is really useful tutorial. More please !! BigGrin I like to keep my engines pristine but I might be tempted to do some aging at some stage.
Malc.
Kev the Modeller
#10 Posted : 25 August 2021 16:31:29

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RM1 wrote:
Thanks Kev, this is really useful tutorial. More please !! BigGrin I like to keep my engines pristine but I might be tempted to do some aging at some stage.
Malc.


I think you mean Ken, Malc? Confused Huh

Kev.

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kpnuts
#11 Posted : 25 August 2021 21:00:45

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Not too fussed about the name mate as long as it not oy
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#12 Posted : 04 September 2021 20:09:59

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Sorry for such a long wait before a progress report but I have to wait till I'm doing something that relates to this topic.

OK so for headers I use ak real metal steel



Ak real metal gold



And valejo Arctic blue



First paint the headers with AK steel ( if I was doing bike headers I would buff the steel up first) (the AK range of metal finishes are amazing and all can be buffed) (the buffing works even better if you have of the paint on the cotton bud or cloth you are buffing the work with) 

Slightly off point my airbrush died so I decided to try and replicate finishes without one.

So get some of the AK gold on your brush(medium flat brush) work most of it off on a tissue and dry brush only on the first bends of the headers.

Next get a cotton bud dip it in AK steel and rub most of it off then dip it in the Arctic blue and starting at the dry brushed gold blend from the gold down towards the exhaust.




Here's how it should look.





If on a motorcycle you would blend less and the header would be highly polished.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#13 Posted : 10 September 2021 20:11:05

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Hi all here's my method for aging plastic parts on car engines you know fuse boxes, air boxes drive shaft gators and such.

I use mig 502 Abteilung model colour copper oxide blue patina

I roughly dab the 502 over the part 



Then hold the part the way it will be in the car and scrub loads of white spirit over the part and let gravity do its job

Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#14 Posted : 13 September 2021 09:52:58

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Hi all I'm thinking of expanding this to include bodywork, interiors or any and all aspects of my modelling techs, firstly would anyone be interested, secondly should I post it all here or set up separate sections for each subject.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
bfam4t6
#15 Posted : 15 September 2021 02:05:07

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Nice aging on the plastics Ken!

As for other aging/weathering, I’d personally love to see it. I’m always up for new ideas. And I vote for a whole new thread, just to make finding and referencing easier in the future.
-Dustin

“Details make perfection, and perfection is not a detail.”
-Leonardo Da Vinci

Currently Building:
-Porsche 2.7 RS
-Jaguar E-Type


Currently Collecting
-Ferrari F40
-Ferrari 250 GTO
-Lamborghini Miura
-Ford GT40
-Ecto-1
-Japanese Zero

roymattblack
#16 Posted : 15 September 2021 19:51:20

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Hello Ken.
Separate subjects would be easier for those searching for specific things...

Great stuff BTW...BigGrin
kpnuts
#17 Posted : 19 September 2021 19:15:39

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Hi so heres another quickie (very messy one)

Take some AK real metal in this case steel put it on a cloth take some string and press it into the AK steel



Fold the cloth over the string



Put your fingers on the cloth over the string and pull the string through



Lots of braided hoses, you can use different thicknesses for different sizes of hose or even double it put it in a dremel and spin it up to double the thickness.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#18 Posted : 02 October 2021 20:46:10

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9OK so this next one will be in 2 parts as its more than 10 pics long.

Doing an old oily engine .

So heres how it looks before 




First my favourite leaky engine product.



So put it on joints or gasket areas (think about where a real engine would leak)(for anyone who doesn't know anything much about engines don't put it on fuel injection or electrical areas, fuel injectors do leak but not using this product)



Whilst this is still wet my next favourite colour (I know you may be thinking is he nuts, but trust me)



This is important keep engine in the orientation it will bevin the vehicle then load the brush with white spirit and flood the areas with the colours on them, you should end up with this.






Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#19 Posted : 02 October 2021 21:22:10

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Another of my favourite products



I have an old stiff brush I use for stuff like this.



Dip in the powder.



And flick over the engine by pulling your finger through the bristles.

You should end up with this




Ken's the name modeling's the game.
kpnuts
#20 Posted : 27 October 2021 21:03:18

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Hi all this is how I do engine cases.

So first I prime it.

Then dab white in random places.




Then since it's already a light grey primer, I add a bit of darker grey(just for a bit of variation)






Now I just use a stiff brush lightly loaded with AK steel

And scrub over it all.



Ken's the name modeling's the game.
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