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Santìsima Trinidad by Jack.Aubrey - De Agostini - Scale 1:90 - Full Model Options
jack.aubrey
#81 Posted : 30 November 2014 15:45:14

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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007

December 29th, 2007 - Prow gratings

I'm now back to you with news about the gratings installed in the prow area, with its (now) completed supporting structure.

This new image shows the gratings seen upwards. The complex has evolved since my previous message of December 19th. I have completed the structure and I have definitely fixed it to the hull.

The gratings are now surrounding in their back the hull, filling completely that area. It was a matter of testing in place and adjusting something a little bit somewhere for several times before I decided to use the glue, but now it's definitely in place !!
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#82 Posted : 30 November 2014 15:47:23

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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007

The following images show downwards, from right to left the cross timbers. There are four cross timbers in total and their name should be:
- stem head timber, the bigger one in the background;
- after head timber;
- middle head timber and, in the foreground,
- forward head timber.
(source: Anatomy of the ship - 32-gun frigate Essex)

I have painted with acrylic gold the timbers but I recognize that in these images you can have some difficulties to discover they are golden instead of the same color of the light wood.

I believe I need to apply some aging techniques to make the golden surface more realistic.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#83 Posted : 04 December 2014 22:24:58

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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008

I'm back with the S.S. Trinidad and a new task I'm achieving: the completion of the rudder. This time, to help understand the complex terminology, I have used a new powerful tool (multifunction laser printer bought yesterday) to scan a page of the book "Anatomy of the Ship - The 32-gun Frigate Essex". The image is here presented first, followed by my own rudder.

More in detail the task consists of:
1) - fixing of the pintles (26), seven in total, to the pintle straps (20);
2) - installation of the gudgeon straps (25), in their correct place:
3) - insert the nail heads in the proper places at the gudgeon straps;
4) - painting the straps with a 1st coat of paint (primer for metal) and another 2nd coat with Humbrol gun-metal.
5) - installation of the eyebolt (12) and the ringbolts (13);

1): The second image shows the rudder as it was left unfinished some weeks ago, with only the pintle straps installed and painted. Now it is time, following the instructions of the kit manufacturer, to install the pintles where the red arrows in the 2nd image point.
The kit instructions say: "with a fast adhesive for metals, fix the pintles . . .".

Thinking more about I had three choices to do this:
a) use the cyan acrylic glue (gel), needs few seconds to dry but probably not strong enough;
b) use the epoxy resin glue (not too fast, at least 15 minutes to dry, 24 hour to be completely hard), probably the best choice among glues;
c) don't use any kind of glue but perform a tin welding; this last option forces me to fix the pintle on the gudgeon straps instead of on the pintle straps which are already installed; it's probably the best choice at all provided I'm able to make a welding.

Finally I decided for option c) and I started to train myself to weld.
I already had the electric welder tool, the tin and the welding acid (from my father in law) so I made some trials with some brass strips and rods several times until I was sure of my technique.
Then I performed the real task, achieving a very good result.

2): Now it was time to mount the gudgeon straps at the sterpost and there was a significant problem: the thickness of the first (close to the pintle) was lesser than the thickness of the latter. So I had to perform seven grooves in the sternpost in order to match the two. The difficult thing was to do the grooves in the proper position. A lot of patience ...

But finally, by using the epoxy resin glue, I fixed them in place with a very complex operation involving: masking tape, few nails, clamps and seven hands ... and now the rudder is totally in place and is also turnable right and left without any fear thank to its high breaking strength.

3): Third I started to drill and insert the nail heads into the gudgeon straps. Here I had to reduce a little bit the head of the nails to simulate the proper scale. I achieved this with the Dremel power tool, inserting the nail in place of the drill bit and working on the head with a fine file until it is reduced properly. Again, a lot of patience ..

4): I have finally applied a coat of primer on the straps and now I'm waiting the paint becomes dry to continue . . . .

. . . so my amazing story ends here . . . see you next time. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#84 Posted : 04 December 2014 22:29:22

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008

Further work on the rudder.

Some days ago I coated with a primer (yellow) the straps and today, being them completly dry, I started to prepare the area for the final color.

To do so I used some stripes of masking tape in order to protect as much as possible the surface not involved in painting.

The first image shows the area protected with the masking tape and the second with a coat of Gun Metal applied. I had to wait a couple of hours for drying and then I applied a second coat. I think that gun metal is much more realistic than copper for the straps.

In the next message the final result.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#85 Posted : 06 December 2014 11:24:49

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008

Today, being the gun metal paint completely dry, I have removed the masking tape from the rudder and the result can be seen in the next two photos.

The work is not yet terminated because now I need to perform the final cleaning of the few places where the paint is penetrated below the tape but it is a quite simple task.

Last I have to apply a coat of transparent, matt paint.
This for two reasons: 1) I don't like the gloss finish and 2) I have to recover the wooden areas around the straps that I damaged during the istallation of the rudder.

Kind regards. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#86 Posted : 06 December 2014 11:29:49

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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008

These images show the rubber area after the application of a final coat of transparent matt varnish (polyurethane enamel: http://www.drtoffano.com...rodotti/pg_prodotti.htm (italian web site)). This is a special varnish specific for modelers.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#87 Posted : 08 December 2014 10:59:22

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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008

Yesterday there was a sunny day here in Milan, after a lot of days of snow, rain or clouds. So I took the opportunity and I shot some new photos from the terrace of my house to my favorite vessel.

As special gift of the new year I attach here some of them.

Kind regards
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jase
#88 Posted : 08 December 2014 13:43:09

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I know this is an old diary, but I am enjoying watching your progression through the build

jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
jack.aubrey
#89 Posted : 09 December 2014 10:30:14

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jase wrote:
I know this is an old diary, but I am enjoying watching your progression through the build
jase

You are right, nevertheless may be still interesting. It was my return to shipmodeling after more that 40 years of inactivity and I got a bit rusty at the beginning.
Thanks for your comment, Jack.
Gibbo
#90 Posted : 09 December 2014 16:17:57

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Beautiful work Jack, and nice to see your signature blue rails on this one.
cheers
Paul
Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. DeAgostini HMS VictoryCollecting: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
jack.aubrey
#91 Posted : 12 December 2014 11:28:32

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Gibbo wrote:
Beautiful work Jack, and nice to see your signature blue rails on this one.
cheers
Paul

Thanks Paul, I appreciate you comment, Jack.

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008

January 24th, 2008 - The stern galleries

Having, for the moment, finished to work around the rudder, I started a new task: the stern galleries and decorations. This will be a long and complex work, so I don't expect a quick final achievement in the near future but a lot of step by step intermediate milestones towards the final objective.

The first step to do is to build two structures on the hull sides. These structures will became the background of the right and left quarter galleries: the work consists of 1) preparation and 2) installation of three bulkheads per side that will be later planked vertically with strips of mm. 2 x 5 of ramin wood.

The first image shows, highlighted in the circle, the starboard side gallery structure when finished and sanded. This was the first I have built and I started planking from left to right. The result of this method was some troubles on the right portion of the structure where I had to perform additional refining work to achieve a reasonnable result. Anyway the result sounds good to me.

The second image shows the same structure on the larboard side.

Here I adopted a different method of planking: I started from the left, applying two shorter planks before, then a second plank on its right side with a blunt-ended upper side, and finally all the other planks to cover the structure until its end. Very much simple and quick: power of the experience . . . sometime I believe one should build at the same time a model twice to obtain the perfect one . . . the first to make experience and the second to make excellence . . .

That's all for today. See you next time. Jack.Aubrey
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#92 Posted : 13 December 2014 19:40:27

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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008

I have found two pictures of the Santìsima Trinidad in two different books. The first one is more similar to a plan and shows the ship probably in its pre Trafalgar livery, with black wales and yellow between them. The hull seems also a little different vs my model in the area of the forecastle and the poop deck. Also the rigging seems different: three yards for each mast instead of four . . .

The second one is more pictorial but most probably shows the ship livery during her last battle, where she was greatly damaged, captured and sunk.

I don't think to adopt one of these liveries for my model but I post these images hoping they can be useful to understand better the history of this ship or to another modeler who prefers finishing his own model in this way.

Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#93 Posted : 14 December 2014 19:23:18

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Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008

I have recently found, surfing on the net, the complete plans of the Santìsima Trinidad. These plans are for the "Occre" kit but are also perfect for mine. In fact my model, published on a weekly magazine by DeAgostini, is an enhancement of this spanish kit.

The availability of these plans is of strategic importance for me and other people building the same model from DeAgostini because the latter doesn't supply any kind of plans. So you can understand the great benefits of having them, especially for the future rigging activities. It also can help very much in foreseeing/understanding some works and consequently plan better the future tasks.

I want also take advantage of this message to explain and show you my last works. They are very small details on the ship but very, very difficult to achieve.

1) Installation of the two lower gallery supports: they are made with cast metal and, as usually, do not absolutely fit in their place. I have spent two to three hours in adapting them and their cradles in order to achieve an acceptable result. Finally I have definitely mounted them using epoxy glue (very strong). Anyway there where many long narrow openings that I had to fit and fill with small pieces of wood. Last, the usual final refinemens and three coats of golden paint.

2) Installation of the catheads and its supporters. The holes in the hull were previously done but I had to adapt the whole to match the right angle (determined by the two horizontal cathead supports made with cast metal). Here I have some images to show you detailing this latter work.

That's all for today. See you next time. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#94 Posted : 14 December 2014 19:27:56

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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008

The works around the stern side galleries are progressing slowly, but this was forecasted. At this stage you have to proceed with extreme care, expecially to ensure a correct alignment with the decks (or better where it is supposed they are).

Next step will be to apply the woodden frames to the windows . . .
Some paint retouch will be then necessary at the end but it's still a long way. And at last there are the stern central galleries, much more complex but hopefully of great satisfaction.

The quality of these four images is not the maximum, mainly due to the poor light available or the bad guy behind the camera. Probably the last two images are the better in terms of color.

See you next time. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#95 Posted : 15 December 2014 11:02:28

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Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008

I'm still working on the poop galleries. It's a never ending story . . .

The new work around the stern side galleries consisted of several things; first of all I realized that the ivory color paint I applied on the windows frames (made with brass and in accordance with the instructions) was at risk.
I wasn't sure the paint was able to remain strongly achored to its brass ground using the cyanacrilate glue, so I decided to remove it and to come back to the original natural brass.
This means that my Santìsima Trinidad will have golden window frames instead of cream . . a good point of personalisation.

Second I had to apply around the window frames some wood strips that are clearly visible in the attached images.
This was a work of great patience but nothing more. As anticipated I used the cyanacrilate glue for this task.

Last I had to apply the two upper galleries supports. They were made of cast metal and, again, they didn't fit at all in their place.
So with time, a lot of patience and a file I removed the exceeding metal to make them fit properly. To fix definitely them I used the bi-component epoxy.

Later I finished the whole areas by painting with gold both the lower than the upper galleries supports. I also tried to age the golden parts but my efforts were not enough and it is now quite invisible. I have to find a better aging method.

I believe that the proposed images here below are much better (in terms of quality and colors) them the same I attached to my previous message: here the colors are influenced only that the winter light, nothing else. . .

Kind regards. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#96 Posted : 17 December 2014 11:09:53

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Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008

These are the quarter galleries of the larboard side of the ship.

If you compare the same images from the other side of the ship you will easily note that here the upper quarter gallery support fits a little differently in its place.

I tried to remodel the metal piece (when seen from the top it has a different curve and shape vs the other) but it wasn't possible to obtain a shape equal to the starboard side. Hindsight it should be better to scratch build it for an hard wood block but ... now it's too late.

This problem is a symptom of the poor quality of the cast and I believe it's a common problem you can find in the most commercial kits. Another arrow in the quiver of scratch building ....

Regards, Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#97 Posted : 17 December 2014 11:12:35

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Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008

My first attachment shows the next battlefield: the stern galleries.

After the experience I made with the quarter galleries I believe this new task will be a much simpler battle . . . but I'm ready for any kind of hazard . .

The other images show one of the main pieces of the stern galleries, made with a cast metal that can be easily manipulated and adapted to the surface where to position it: the stern frame (or framing ?).

Before to install it, it's better to paint it, it's much simpler now than once mounted in place.

First I have applied a coat of blue paint and after two (for the moment) coats of golden paint. The gold paint is applied with a "customized" brush, with the bristles cut very short. The brush is used "quasi" dry to avoid painting the area that needs to remain blue.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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jack.aubrey
#98 Posted : 18 December 2014 12:22:42

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Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008

The work on the stern galleries is progressing slowly, but it's anyway better than nothing . . . .

In this period I'm undertaking several interests that are diverging my mind from ship modeling: in the last 15 days I spent very few time working on my models.
From the other side more of my time was focused on finding a car for my daugther (at the end I decided for a new one), a home helper for my mother (87 years old) and in reviewing and deciding the venue where to spend my next summer holidays.

The images here attached, shot yesterday Feb. 21st, show the work-in-progress on the stern: I'm applying the wooden frames at the windows. Today I have made another few progress but it's now sunset and there is not enough light for taking good photos.

See you tomorrow .. Jack.
jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Gibbo
#99 Posted : 18 December 2014 23:53:16

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Some really lovely detail there Jack.
Regards
Paul
Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. DeAgostini HMS VictoryCollecting: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
samson
#100 Posted : 21 December 2014 01:56:52

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Hi Jack

Beautiful work, you can be proud.Cool
Cheers Jens BigGrin
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