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Working with Water Transfer Printing Options
Andreas
#1 Posted : 24 January 2015 16:06:11

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Hi Folks


After a few inquiries about applying water transfer printing, I put here is a guide to the procedure for working with water transfer printing. Even though the network is full of instructions, not every is described by the application from the same, which also lead to uncertainties in applying. This is the procedure as I've Applied, and this has always with great results.
But I tell also expressly, I not belong to any corporation or other, which sells the product, but I have discovered this sometime ago, taught myself, and I am enjoying working with it. This is a alternative to painting, which you can achieve very good results with.
Applying Water transfer printing is easy and quick to learn. The possibilities to modify its components, Optical, and this in any desired design is endless. There are more than 5000 different patterns, and the roles in various widths and lengths. There are starter kits for little money, and it goes up to professional equipment you can buy. When water transfer printing you can afford mistakes, they can be easily corrected. Should it fail to equal a design, or the appearance; the part is simply immersed again. There is no grinding needed, simply rinse the excess which is always after diving on the component with Cold water, drying and dive again. Throughout the dipping process for its own protection, a respirator and rubber gloves must be worn. This film penetrates into the smallest pore, and goes hard away again.
Description of the method.
The decor is printed on a special water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol film. If appropriate, the parts to be coated are primed and / or coated with a base color (basecoat). This is necessary, for example, when a decorative brown, green, and includes a transparent pattern. For example, I want to put on a vehicle a winter camouflage pattern, the component should have the basic white color. The green and brown pattern of the film covers the white part on the dive, but the pattern of the film the White Transparent comes through. Result, you got a winter camouflage brown, green and white.
How do I treat a component with water transfer printing? A.) Preparing components. B.) Clean and dry Parts . C.) Basic color from the component to the carrier film. The film is a third larger than the component you want to design. All around the component should be at least 5 cm of the transfer film survive. Now it is nessesary to put on some masking tape on the edges of the Film. Half of the adhesive tape is glued on the edge, is folded and so fixed to the other side of the decor. This results in a stable border. This is done because that the Film doesnt curl up on the water surface. Now you are preparing the water into a basin, sink, bowl etc. This container should be large enough that your components fit in as well as the carrier film. The water temperature should be between 25-30 degrees. The time for the whole process is important. It now does not come on for a few seconds, but it should not take longer between each step.

Step 1. The prepared tape printing film is placed on the surface of the dip tank, with the sticky side on the water, this is the page where the pattern is much to see. You can also if you are not sure which side is the right side make this test. Moisten your middle finger and thumb lightly, take a rest slides between the two fingers and press. The page remains liable, the adhesive side.

Step 2. From the time of laying of the film in the water you have 60 + - 10 sek to remove bubbles formed when inserting the film on the water under the foil. Dabbing lightly so that they escape under the tape edge with your fingers to the brim. This sounds harder than it is. The important thing is that the fingers are dry during removing the bubbles to the edges of the foil, With wet fingers immediately the films structure would be destroyed in seconds.

Step 3. Now after the elapsed time, and elimination of air bubbles, spray the carrier film on the water with an activator, but! only so much that the film is fogged . Now you can watch a Chemical Reaction, the structure of liquid, it combines with the water. put on a spraying mask for painting, yes it is not unnecessarily inhale the gas and harm your health. Do this work in a well ventilated area. After spray the foil with activator you have again 60 sec. Time for diving the component . The components to be coated are now immersed in 45 degree angle through the floating film in the water bath, but do this slowly! By the pressure of the water the decorative film is pressed uniformly on the portions. It now adheres to the component. The printed parts must be washed of immediately under Cold after diving. This is nesserary to remove the excess polyvinyl alcohol base layer of the film, this is a slimy layer. Rinse so long until every layer is completely removed. Now dry the treated component , and then when wanted coat with a clear coat. The component may also be further processed. This was a little guide as I traversed the water transfer printing.

Part before Water Transfer Printing


Part after Water Transfer Printing



Best Regards
Andreas
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Nemesis
#2 Posted : 24 January 2015 16:25:59

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That is really interesting! Very similar to Hydro-dipping that we use on motorcycle fairings and car parts. Thank you for posting this information.BigGrin BigGrin
Tomick
#3 Posted : 24 January 2015 22:42:42

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An interesting read Andreas, and congrat's on your model making know-how medal Cool
Andreas
#4 Posted : 27 January 2015 17:52:08

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Tomick wrote:
An interesting read Andreas, and congrat's on your model making know-how medal Cool


Hi Tomick


Thank you , I appreciate it very muchBigGrin

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Andreas
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LrdSatyr8
#5 Posted : 16 March 2015 16:28:21

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I've actually thought about trying this for awhile now. How much do the water soluable sheets cost? What is the Activator... is it a paint thinner or perhaps vinegar or even a clear laquer to allow the paint to adhere to the model once dipped?
Andreas
#6 Posted : 16 March 2015 18:10:32

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LrdSatyr8 wrote:
I've actually thought about trying this for awhile now. How much do the water soluable sheets cost? What is the Activator... is it a paint thinner or perhaps vinegar or even a clear laquer to allow the paint to adhere to the model once dipped?



hi
So the activator spray is needed to bring a chemical process in gear. The film is dissolved in the process, but the pattern of the film remains intact. It becomes liquid. The pattern of the film runs in every gap on and in the component. It only works with the activator. You get the Activator in the same shop you get the film. A film of a size from 1.0 m x 0.50 m costs about 3-4 euros. The prices of the films are ot the same because of the different Patterns.

Best Regards
Andreas
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LrdSatyr8
#7 Posted : 16 March 2015 18:32:06

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Andreas wrote:
So the activator spray is needed to bring a chemical process in gear. The film is dissolved in the process, but the pattern of the film remains intact. It becomes liquid. The pattern of the film runs in every gap on and in the component. It only works with the activator. You get the Activator in the same shop you get the film. A film of a size from 1.0 m x 0.50 m costs about 3-4 euros. The prices of the films are ot the same because of the different Patterns.


I know I've heard of this before and actually seen videos on the process. But back when I was growing up I learned early on how some companies will get you to buy anything. I remember buying Decal Set in a little .5oz bottle and it cost me like $3.50... but it smelled awefully familiar. Come to find out, it was just pure white vinegar. I picked up a bottle of vinegar from the grocery store for like .75 cents and have had it in my toolbox ever since. Or how many different ways can they sell Isoprophyl Alcohol? Its the universal cheap way for companies to make a quick buck. They've sold it as a cleaner for everything from video game systems to DVD cleaners. Its the same thing... just in a different package. So it really makes me question just what the stuff truly is. I make my own decals all the time by printing something up on a piece of photograph paper, then spraying it with a gloss or dull clear coat, and cutting it out and using vinegar as a base set agent on the model as I slide it off the paper. Works very well.

So basically I guess what I'm asking is, I am assuming that the "paper" is a water soluable paper that is printed on, and the activator is probably either a sticky substance enhancer that will allow the ink to stay in one place while the paper is dissolving in the water or a binding agent that will allow the ink to adhere together on the surface of the water. I dunno... never tried it before but I'm sure with a little experimentation, something could be done that would simulate the same results without the costs of having to purchase pre-printed designs and the "special" activator. About the only thing that would be necessary would be the soluable paper itself. Make any sense?
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