Issue 41 - Contains curved parts for the gallery sides, wood strips to make the wales, the bow deck and a temporary bowsprit dowel (to aid bow deck alignment), and has instruction for stage 2 of the gallery build (fitting of the sides and top), and the fitting of the bow deck.

Assembling the gallery sides and top - The process describes the fitting of one side where the opposite side is then repeated.
Glue the curved edge of part 79 below the upper row of windows, you'll need to clamp it in place as it forms a slight curve to the gallery panel.

Dry fit the gallery side and hold in position with masking tape, then sit part curved part 63 on top of the gallery side, you will need to chamfer the inside and rear edge's to get a gap free fit to the hull side and gallery back panel.
You'll need to carefully follow steps 4-7 for correct placement of part 63 which involves careful measurement to form an arc for the gallery side edge to and the adding of blocks to part 63 for the side panel to butt up to.
Chamfer the front edge of the gallery side so that it sits neatly against the hull, you may also need to to chamfer the front of the upper false deck to get the gallery side to sit perfectly.
Soak the gallery side in warm water to help it bend which will make fitting easier, the gallery sides are fragile so take care in handling and bending.
Glue the side and gallery top (63) into position, you'll need to hold together with masking tape and/or clamps until the glue is fully dry.
Then sand the edge of part 63 until it is flush with the gallery side, you can also sand the rear and bottom edges of the gallery side flush with their respective parts.

Next, fit curved part 64 on top of 63 and draw a line round the edge in pencil, then sand the corner edge of 63 to form a smooth radius from the pencil line to the bottom edge, then sand off the pencil mark.
Sand the scorched edges off part 64 and chamfer its straight edges and smooth the top curved edge, then glue 64 on top of 63. Repeat this process for curved part 65, and repeat again for curved part 66.

Turn the model over and sand the underside of the gallery flush - #70 parts will be fitted here later in a similar way to the gallery top, also sand the ends of the planks fitted in issue 40 (steps 1-5) flush with the side of the hull, (do not profile the planking which runs just below the gallery panel)

Fitting the bow deck - Mark the dowel 40mm from one end, then sand a flat (on opposite sides) at the short marked end up to the line, the dowel should be sanded so it fits snuggly into the bowsprit slot, ensuring it rests on the sloping bowsprit support and that it does not touch the beak and should be in central alignment with the beak.
Try the bow deck in position, it will not lay flat until its 'U'- shaped slot is enlarged, gradually enlarge the slot (but retaining the rounded end), until the deck sits flat on the tops of the bow frames.
Glue the deck in place, being careful not to let any glue get on the dowel, which you need to be able to remove.
When the glue is dry, take out the test dowel and sand the edges of the deck flush with the hull planking.


Issue 42 - Contains wood strips/pins used to make the wales and two different metal eyebrows or 'wriggles' which will act as cutting patterns in 43; and has instruction for the fitting of the middle/lower wales and stern trim strip.

If you want to leave your model unpainted to show off the woodwork, you can choose woodstain to highlight features such as the wales, you'll need to decide this at 42 where you will need to stain the edges of the wales before fitting them to your model.
It is inadvisable to use a wood dye, its thin viscosity makes it spread rapidly and without control where it will creep beyond where you want it to be, therefore use a woodstain, always test the stain on scrap of the supplied wood before applying to your model, the example in the magazine shows a walnut woodstain, but you can choose any colour you prefer.

Issue 43 - Contains wood strips and shaped pieces for reinforcing the hawsehole's, bow and stem, plus gratings and round shot; and has instruction for the planking of the bow deck where you will need a black permanent marker pen to simulate deck caulking, the fitting of the upper wale and moulding strip, making the eyebrow cut-outs over the gun ports, and the drilling of holes for the lower two rows of gun port hatch ropes (a 1.5mm drill bit is needed).

Issue 44 - Contains wood strips for the construction of the upper deck and to complete the stem reinforcements; and has instruction for adding the stem reinforcements (74,75,76), making the hawsehole's and the trimming of the stem post.

Issue 45 - Contains deck beams and planking, along with components to make Victory's wheel, and has instruction for the fitting of the upper deck beams and planking the deck which is continued in 46.

Issue 43 - Contains wood strips and parts for reinforcing the hawsehole's, bow and stem, plus grating strips and round shot - (carefully store parts 74,75,76, grating strips and shot for later use).

Planking the bow deck - Before you can add the upper wales, you need to plank the head deck using 1x5mm strips (You can use the offcuts from planking the middle wales, as well as the planks supplied with this issue).
To simulate deck caulking, run a black permanent marker along one thin edge of each plank (test on scrap first).
Cut a length of plank long enough to overlap the edge of the deck 'U' shaped cut-out, use either a thin layer of PVA or use contact adhesive to secure the decking into place.
Continue the decking so that it slightly overhangs the deck edge, making sure that you have the 'caulked' edges of the planks on the same side every time.
When complete, give the planks a coat of sanding sealer to seal the deck before you sand the surface, otherwise the black caulking may stain the surface of the planks.
Then sand the edge of the deck flush with the hull and carefully cut or sand the ends of the 'U' recess planks to accept the bowsprit dowel.

Fitting of the upper wale - The upper wale is built up in the same manner as the middle wale in 42, use the photo across pages 10/11 of 42 as a positioning guide, you should apply two rows of 1x5mm strip, and for those who have opted for the natural finish don't forget to pre-stain the strips before fixing in place.

Fitting of the upper deck moulding strip - Take the 1x3mm strips (supplied with 42) and pin them into position using the photo on pages 10/11 of 42 as a guide, again if you have opted for the natural finish the strip should be stained before being fixed into place.

Wale port cutting - Where the wales run over the gun ports, cut them away down to the bottom of the port opening.

Gun port rope template - The lower two rows of gun ports have hatches operated by ropes, these won't be fitted until a later stage of the build, but you need to mark and drill the holes now.
To position these evenly, trace the rope template from the magazine, laminate with clear tape and make a crease along the line.
Place the crease in the template against the top of the port and mark the position of the holes using a sharp point - Note that the upper two holes are normally the correct ones to use. Use the lower holes only if the upper holes fall exactly on the edge of a wale.
The foremost gun port on the upper deck also has a hatch cover, but don't mark or drill this one until after more detail parts have been added in this area.
Then drill 1.5mm holes at the marked rope points.

Gun port 'wriggle' cut-outs - Most of the gun ports have small metal canopies called 'wriggles'.
The picture on pages 10/11 of issue 42 shows where they are fitted, and included with the same issue are one of each type of wriggle which will act as templates to mark cut-outs for the rest.

The lower wriggles have a flat top, and need to be inserted into the bottom edge of the middle wale, simply place it in position and mark the overlap with a pencil noting that the bottom edge of the wriggle should be level with the top of the port, carefully cut away the wood so that each wriggle sit's flat against the hull.

The upper wriggles have a peaked centre top, repeat the process on the middle and upper deck, for the upper deck forward and aft wriggle simply cut the moulding strip away.

If you have opted for a natural finish, you should sand and stain the wales with your chosen stain, if you have opted for the painted finish, the black and yellow stripes will be in slightly different positions and are painted at a later stage.


Issue 44 - Contains wood strips for the construction of the upper deck and to complete the stem reinforcements; and has instruction for adding the stem reinforcements (74,75,76), making the hawsehole's and the trimming of the stem post.

Issue 45 - Contains deck beams and planking, along with components to make Victory's wheel, and has instruction for the fitting of the upper deck beams and planking the deck which is continued in 46.

Issue 46 - Contains wood strips, grating strips, round shot, and has instruction to continue the upper deck planking and the fitting of dummy gun support beams.

Issue 47 - Contains bulwark lining strips, wood pieces to make the 'bitts', grating strips, and contains instruction for lining of the upper deck bulwarks and making the 'bitts'.

Issue 45 - Contains deck beam strips and deck planking strips, plus components to make Victory's wheel; and has instruction for the fitting of the upper deck support beams and commences the planking of the upper deck, (you will also need to retrieve the five 1.5x6mm deck beam strips from 44).

Fitting the deck support beams - Take the test dowel from issue 41 and try it into the central mast hole (you may need to taper its end, if so taper the end with the flats), it needs to be a smooth sliding fit all the way to the bottom of the slot in the keel; repeat with forward mast hole to confirm that it fits well, then set the dowel aside, you will need it later when you come to plank the deck.

Use a pair of dividers, measure the span across the lowest deck support brackets on frame 13, where the first deck support beam will be fitted; transfer the measurement onto a 1.5x6mm strip and cut to length, then trial fit it in place across the lowest brackets on frame 13; it should be a snug fit and without a bow to it, then glue the strip in place so that it sits centrally on both brackets.

Repeat the process for all frames except frames 14 and 26, where you should locate 10mm lengths of 1.5x6mm strip upon the support brackets, (so as not to obscure the forward and aft mast holes with a full length deck beam).
If you opted for the gun deck cutaway, do not glue the starboard ends of the beams to frames 18/19 over the cutaway section.

Planking the deck - The deck is planked with 1.5x5mm strips, most of which will be visible on the finished model, so aim for a neat finish, with real or simulated joints between the hull planking in the visible area.
Using a rule, mark the centre line on the deck support beams (use the previously drawn bulkhead centre line as a guide), then set your compass to 18mm, and use it to mark a line on each deck beam on the left (port) side of the centre line.

Simulate decking caulking lines on the planking by running a black marker pen down one side of the planks (the same side each time) in the same way as you did with the bow deck planking.
Note - you only need to simulate plank joins and nail heads forward of the main mast, as the planks of the aft of the main mast will not be visible on the finished model. You can add joins where they would fall over the beam at frame 14.
When you lay the planks, only apply glue where each plank contacts with each deck support beam, do not glue the edges and be careful not to get glue on the deck, as any attempt to sand it off will destroy the simulated joins/nail heads and the resulting dust will impair the deck surface.

Lay a plank (with one end against frame 12) along the 18mm line you marked earlier, then draw a line across the plank at the centre line of the deck support beam at frame 20, and cut the strip to length.
You can simulate shorter planks by drawing a line at the centre of every third beam, and adding nail heads with a pencil, then glue the strip in position outboard of the line.
Lay another plank from the end of the first one at frame 20 to frame 27, then lay another from frame 15 to frame 22, on the side furthest from the centre line and simulate extra joins, offset by one frame from the previous plank.

Cut a short section of plank to fit from frame 12 to frame 15, then lay another section of plank from frame 22 to frame 27. Add another two runs of planks in a similar way, offsetting the joins in each.

To create the first grating hole, cut two strips 140mm long and fit them to the forward bulkhead on the mast side, simulate joins and nails to maintain the decking pattern, then cut another 140mm strip, put the dowel in the forward mast hole and carefully cut an arc in this plank so it fits neatly around the dowel, you can leave a small gap of up to 1mm, as this will not be visible on the finished model. Then cut a short length of plank to fit in front of the mast with a concave curve at one end to go around the mast. Then cut another strip to fit astern of the mast with a curve at the forward end and its opposite end in alignment with the neighbouring decking.
Add another three planks, each 140mm long, cutting an arc in the first one to complete the mast hole.

Cut one strip of planking 224mm long, plus seven more strips at 22mm long, add caulking to the latter which will form the deck separation between the two grating holes.

Glue a small strip of wood onto the end of a 300mm plank to make a length gauge which is 303mm long.

Hold the 224mm strip against frame 12, and use the other end as a positioning guide to glue the 22mm strips in place, draw the decking pattern as appropriate.

Note - The text at step 19 on page 13 contains a typo error, which should read: With the 303mm gauge held against frame 12, lay a plank from one end of the gauge to the centre of frame 25 (not 24).

Repeat this with a further six planks, making a hole for the main mast in the same way as you did with the fore mast.

Then lay four rows of planks from the bow to frame 26 in the same way as you did on the portside.

Then lay two rows of planks from the bow all the way back onto frame 30 and the upper false deck at the rear of the gallery.
Repeat this on both sides of the deck.

The upper deck planking is completed in 46.


Issue 46 - Contains wood strips, grating strips, round shot, and has instruction to continue the upper deck planking and the fitting of dummy gun support beams.

Issue 47 - Contains bulwark lining strips, wood pieces to make the 'bitts', grating strips, and contains instruction for lining of the upper deck bulwarks and making the 'bitts'.

Issue 48 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus tackle parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the assembly of the deck gratings supplied at issues 43, 46 and 47.

Issue 49 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus a set of parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the fitting of the deck gratings constructed in 48.

At this point you will need to have the first 10 gun kits assembled/painted in readiness for issue 50.