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ROPES? Options
piot007
#1 Posted : 24 May 2010 10:51:01

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Hi all. Can anyone tell me which size rope/cotton to use on the build. Im thinking 2.5mm and 0.5mm for the block and tackle on the carronade, from either cornwall models or ive also read somewhere that calderdraft models are very good.
The blocks looks a bit big as well. What sizes are other people buying as a replacement. Its my first build, but i would like more authenticity. I love a challenge. I struggle to find the info i need when i need it. Could the answer be put into the 'index of topics' section please, as thats where most people(newbies like me) will look first.
Thanks for all the great pics and advice. I depend on you all.
Piot
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
Zeptrader
#2 Posted : 24 May 2010 19:14:54

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I think we will have to wait some time for that, but any info that does come up I'll put in the index.
piot007
#3 Posted : 24 May 2010 20:37:38

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Thankyou Zeptrader. Im sorry, but I didnt wait for advice and bought from Cornwall boats. Who have a very impressive stock line and keen prices.
I bought 100x 3mm natural doubled holed blocks (7p each) and rope/twine in the following sizes 0.1mm, 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 2.5mm. Hope they are all the right sizes. At least ive got a good spread selection. Ive also bought sanding sealer. Paints and W+D paper and cutting mat also turned up today. just waiting for the W+N brushes. Then I can crack on with the build.
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
karl1113
#4 Posted : 24 May 2010 20:51:24

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pio,you are better off on getting tools as most of hardware will be supplied,just read all the threads and get gend up on what is required it will save you a fortuneBigGrin
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piot007
#5 Posted : 26 May 2010 09:03:26

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Okey Dokey karl,
Majority of my money has been spent so far on paints and preping for painting. Only bout 35 quid. Gonna start slow with it. I got absolutly no clue as to when i'll need which ever tool is required so 'as and when' is the case for me.
Also, with the gggrrreat advise on money saving tips i.e soldering iron instaed of plank bender, I should be fine.
Do you think the tool kit provided will suffice?
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
piot007
#6 Posted : 02 June 2010 11:16:39

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Twine arrived, and i suggest you stay away from 2.5mm for the cannon/carronade recoil absorber attatched to the deck, as its MASSIVE. Completly over sized. Its so big that if you up it to 85 times, the rope thickness becomes more than 20cm diameter. Cant even get 2 hands around it. Its wider than the barrel of the guns. 1mm looks more like it ,at least it fits in the hole (just). There is still a scale issue tho, the recoil restrainer still has room to breath in the cannons eyelet in the photos. Its my first build ever so I cant say where 2.5mm will go, if anywhere. But judging by the size of it. I think it should go in the bin. Pics to follow soon (just need a camera good enough). Any suggestions as to what size for the block and tackle and recoil restrainer? I say 0.5mm for recoil rope, and 0.25 for the blocks and tackle. leaving 0.1 to lash up the ends. Advice??
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
Capt Stedders
#7 Posted : 02 June 2010 12:33:33

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piot007 wrote:
Twine arrived, and i suggest you stay away from 2.5mm for the cannon/carronade recoil absorber attatched to the deck, as its MASSIVE. Completly over sized. Its so big that if you up it to 85 times, the rope thickness becomes more than 20cm diameter. Cant even get 2 hands around it. Its wider than the barrel of the guns. 1mm looks more like it ,at least it fits in the hole (just). There is still a scale issue tho, the recoil restrainer still has room to breath in the cannons eyelet in the photos. Its my first build ever so I cant say where 2.5mm will go, if anywhere. But judging by the size of it. I think it should go in the bin. Pics to follow soon (just need a camera good enough). Any suggestions as to what size for the block and tackle and recoil restrainer? I say 0.5mm for recoil rope, and 0.25 for the blocks and tackle. leaving 0.1 to lash up the ends. Advice??


Your thick 2.5mm thread could come in handy around the house or in the garden - besides which, most modelmakers tend to keep all manner of odds and ends in special 'whatchymicallit' boxes.

As for a camera, I got great results with a simple 4MP Nikkon Coolpix camera (which I still use occaisionaly even though I upgraded to a Sony DSR) - whatever you go for, check that it has a macro facility and you'll be fine.

After the camera, the most important thing is lighting - a couple of decent, well positioned daylight bulbs (see the brushworks thread for more details)will make a HUGE amount of difference to your pics.

As for the thicknesses of rope, I tend to use the MK I eyeball to judge the most appropriate size - look at a picture of the real thing and hold up various gauges of cotton to your model, selecting the gauge that looks most appropriate - if it looks right, it probably is.
Schnellboots on back burner

Tools.


piot007
#8 Posted : 02 June 2010 19:33:06

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Cheerz Stedders,
Eyeball is the best way. Although this means extensive re-modelling, which doubles the build time for me. Its all good, cause the name of the game for me is the building. Due to limited room for display I will prob sell this first one.
More importantly start another. I got the 'bug' as they say. I wish I started an easier build for the first ever attempt tho. Its gonna be some learning curve.
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
piot007
#9 Posted : 03 June 2010 11:59:15

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Does anyone know where to get twine/cotton at a smaller size than 0.10mm.
Yep, I know thats thin but MK1 eyeball says 'Make it so'
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
snowtiger
#10 Posted : 03 June 2010 16:28:28

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Hi Piot ....fish arround on e-bay there is plenty to choose from..BigGrin
Jamie
#11 Posted : 03 June 2010 21:34:15

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piot007 wrote:
Twine arrived, and i suggest you stay away from 2.5mm for the cannon/carronade recoil absorber attatched to the deck, as its MASSIVE. Completly over sized. Its so big that if you up it to 85 times, the rope thickness becomes more than 20cm diameter. Cant even get 2 hands around it. Its wider than the barrel of the guns. 1mm looks more like it ,at least it fits in the hole (just). There is still a scale issue tho, the recoil restrainer still has room to breath in the cannons eyelet in the photos. Its my first build ever so I cant say where 2.5mm will go, if anywhere. But judging by the size of it. I think it should go in the bin. Pics to follow soon (just need a camera good enough). Any suggestions as to what size for the block and tackle and recoil restrainer? I say 0.5mm for recoil rope, and 0.25 for the blocks and tackle. leaving 0.1 to lash up the ends. Advice??


Hi Piot007

I have also purchased some 2.5mm twine and yes it's big but I got mine purposely for using on the bower anchors as I didn't like the twine that came in the kit.


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andylangtree
#12 Posted : 03 June 2010 22:16:42

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Done the same Jamie, not sure if its out of scale until it is time to attach to the build and after seeing the real thing last Friday and the ropes are enormous.
andylangtree attached the following image(s):
DSC00550.JPG
Son of Bulwark
#13 Posted : 03 June 2010 22:51:02

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Hi andylangtree! BigGrin

Look to be about right! the rope used is slighty smaller that the width of the anchors shank as you can see from the picture.
Hope this helps! Cool
Son of Bulwark attached the following image(s):
Anchor.JPG
Dontshootme
#14 Posted : 04 June 2010 00:12:12

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Don't look at the picture Richard...hairy rope alert!!!LOL
Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!
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Mike Turpin
#15 Posted : 04 June 2010 01:01:27

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No!!!!! Not hairy ropes Glare Glare

The anchor cable needs to be large for a ship like Victory. It isn't the anchor which keeps a ship moored in one place, it is actually the weight of the cable as well as the anchor holding one end of the cable to the sea bed. Therefore the larger the ship, the larger the cable.

Mike T
Dontshootme
#16 Posted : 04 June 2010 01:37:04

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Mike Turpin wrote:
No!!!!! Not hairy ropes Glare Glare

The anchor cable needs to be large for a ship like Victory. It isn't the anchor which keeps a ship moored in one place, it is actually the weight of the cable as well as the anchor holding one end of the cable to the sea bed. Therefore the larger the ship, the larger the cable.

Mike T

I believe I am right in saying that you need 1.5x depth of cable run out,it then sags in a loop& runs along seabed to anchor.Once anchor dropped ship is taken "aback" so that the correct length is out.Thats what I seem to remember from my Sea Scout days anyway..no doubt someone will correct me if i'm wrong.
Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!
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Mike Turpin
#17 Posted : 04 June 2010 09:58:09

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Sounds about right! All my knowledge is from books, trouble with living in Leeds is that there is not a lot of sea to practice on! Taken aback means that the ship is essentially facing the wrong way and the wind pushes the sails back against the masts. Therefore when anchoring, the anchor is dropped and the ship allowed to drift back paying out the cable until there is sufficient scope to keep the ship steady. The cable is then secured to the 'riding bitts' which are significantly large timbers on the deck of a sailing ship just forward of the foremast.

Mike T

amipal
#18 Posted : 07 June 2010 00:20:54

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andylangtree wrote:
Done the same Jamie, not sure if its out of scale until it is time to attach to the build and after seeing the real thing last Friday and the ropes are enormous.

The thread you've used certainly looks accurate, nice job.
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